I've simply modified my built in condo metal fireplace to produce more heat

[Ichingcarpenter]

My gas furnace went out two years ago and they wanted $2100 to replace it.
I said no, luckily for me I live in Central California where the temperature
in the winter is around 40-25 at night and much warmer during the day.
Getting free wood has been easy since they tore a partially forested property
to build a Kohls shopping center. Red Oak and Eucalyptus.

Anyway, most of the metal fire places designed in the 80s were just for show and
log wasters. Mine has two glass sides but all of the heat goes up the flue and the fire grate
doesn't go against the back wall let alone hold the coals in one solid place.
But it looks cool when it burns!!!!

The grate itself is a problem since it can't be removed easily because it goes into
the cemented surface of the bottom bricks.

When I lived in Denver I had a grate that had a patent on it and was called the heatalotor
from 1895, it was meant to use coal or wood chuncks, it put out fantastic heat
downstairs until the outside temperature hit 15 degrees. It was a firebox
inside of a fireplace.

I have now modified the box by doing the following:

I have shorten the back of the fireplace by adding a 16x16x1 paving block
on three sides of the grates, cutting the size of the interior box down by half,
added a Santa Maria bbq grate on top of the wood grate to hold the coals and
by slanting the block in the back into the flue was able to cut out
1/2 of the heat going up up the flue.

I can now put one log on for the night on top of coals
that will still be there in the morning. Never was able
to do that before.

My wood consumption is 2/3 less and the heat into the condo has increased by
almost as much.

My neighbors were amazed at the improvements since they have the same
fireplaces.

The cost of this modification were three 16" blocks, a grate I got out the trash, and
and a 6"x2" stone to hold the flue at the desired length.

I guess the best way to described this is a firebox inside of a fireplace.
I don't need huge logs but can burn hardwood chips very easy and cleaner.

I know this is not 'science' but I used science to get my fireplace
to be more energy efficient.

When I lived in Crested Butte, we first used coal to heat our house,
we were poor and the house didn't cost much. The coal stench
was in everything at that altitude, air and cold.

Now catalytic converter were require for a fireplace in Colorado
and in Northern Europe which is a good thing.


PS I looked into putting in a wood stove insert this summer
but ........$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[FreakinDJ]

1. Shame is in California you could use Solar/Hydronec Heating

And not burn wood altogether

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/hackleman64.html

[Ichingcarpenter]

3. The Condo had solar hot water heating panels on the roof when it was built

It was built right before Reagan cut out the tax stimulus/ deductions
that killed the industry. They were poorly built at that time and failed
because of poor inspections and design.

I have no problem burning wood if environmental safe guards are in place.
However, I don't have a catalytic converter nor a good fireplace so
I do feel guilty about that, but have no alternative right now.


Heater systems installed here seemed to have failed almost all within the
same few years. I have a couple of neighbors, like me, that can't afford
a new one and depend on the fireplace to break the chill. If each place
was stand alone then we couldn't depend on the shared wall natural heat
generated just by living here and would need something more substantial.

Anyway, my design is being spread around for free.



Scandinavian pellet design stoves even fuels power plants, let alone wood stoves, in
Europe and are environmentally more sound than some other systems.


We have enough wicked wind all the time that could fuel half of this town's electricity,
save the agricultural land and prevent loss of land that produces three crops a year.


Thanks for the reply and letting me rant, I was just happy that I gave some neighbors some help
that dealt with simple thermal dynamics and a cheap solution.

[NMDemDist2]

2. watch out burning that Eucalyptus

very very oily, get your chimney cleaned yearly

[Ichingcarpenter]

4. Just use it as a starter on the red oak

The Eucalyptus is aromatic and is over a hundred years old,
the trees were giants when they fell and planted as a wind break
to protect the farm land from dyhydration if that tells you anything
of the wind potential here. I know my woods from being a cabinet maker, boat builder
and a forester in my early life.

The chimney was cleaned after I had my condo fire a few years ago.
I don't burn that Eucalyptus that much, only as a starter.

With the box, I've reduced the smoke to the chimney because
of the increase efficient burning


I guess my point is
Durning my construction years, I've helped or have installed dozens
of these pre-fab fireplaces the US made.

They were terribly designed and passed to the public
as a source of heat and coziness when something so simple
as simple science from 1895 could improve the model.

[OxQQme]

6. If you could duct some outside air

using a dryer vent hose and feed the fire it's air from outside it would create a pressurized room instead of a vacuum.
The fire needs air and will suck it in from the outside past any cracks thereby pulling cold air into the room.
I had an airtight stove in a previous life that used this technique. I could warm up a back room by cracking a window open.

[Greyskye]

5. TTIUWP

You should post some pics of your project. Sounds great! :thumbsup:

[Dover]

7. Might consider posting this in the DIY forum where it would be fully appreciated.

And I agree with the poster above...pics would sure be helpful!