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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:08 PM
Original message
What should I see on my European/Scandinavian "mini-vacation?"
I'll be attending a conference in Sweden later this month, after which I've planned to stay on a week and do the tourist thing. I'll probably have about a day in Stockholm, and three days each in Berlin and Copenhagen.

So, for all DUers who have been to those cities -- What museums/attractions/etc. should I absolutely not miss? I'll have a rail pass, so will be able to do day-trip type stuff as well as the more centrally located attractions.

On the other hand, any sights not worth the bother?

I should probably note that I'm a woman and will probably be traveling alone (though, staying in hostels, you can never tell when you might meet up with a group to tag along with!).

Thanks so much, y'all!!!!

:-)
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Zan_of_Texas Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:14 PM
Response to Original message
1. Long long ago...
I visited those places. I really really enjoyed Tivoli Gardens. Lit up at night, it was quite magical.

Also visited the old town part of Stockholm, and enjoyed that.

Other than that, be sure to spend some time away from touristy stuff, and just strike up conversations with people. When I was there (over thirty years ago) almost everyone spoke very good English. And, they were quite hospitable and friendly.

Of course, I don't know these days -- wear your I Love Hans Blix t-shirt? <G>
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:36 PM
Response to Reply #1
4. I'm definitely looking forward to visiting Tivoli
I was also planning to check out Bakken, which apparently has been open in some form for over 500 years, but it will already be closed for the season by the time I get there. I agree, talking with locals can often be one of the best parts of a trip.

That Hans Blix T-shirt just might be a good idea ...although, from my previous trip to Europe, it seems I don't really "scan" as American. Lots of folks in Germany, Austria, Hungary asking if I were British or Canadian (or sometimes Australian); in Italy and Greece, a surprising number of shopkeepers, etc., assumed I was German (guess those Pennsylvania Dutch genes are showing through!). Still, one can't be too careful these days. :-)
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Feanorcurufinwe Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:28 PM
Response to Original message
2. One of the highlights of my trip was Christiana
One of the highlights of my trip was Christiana which is a section of Copenhagen founded by hippy squatters in 1971.

http://www.aok.dk/E/V/CPHDK/0006/13/62/cs2.html
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:57 PM
Response to Reply #2
11. That sounds interesting
It was mentioned in my all-of-Scandinavia guidebook, but it's good to hear that it is indeed worth a visit.
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trotsky Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:30 PM
Response to Original message
3. Don't forget your American Apology T-Shirt
I can find a link if you want - it basically says, "I'm sorry George Bush is the president. I didn't vote for him." in several different languages. :)

When I was in Europe it was mainly the southern half of Germany, and points south. Prague was quite simply the most beautiful city I've ever seen and if I could go back to Europe and see just one city again, that would be it. However that might be too far south for you, I dunno.

There is still PLENTY to see and do no matter where you go in Europe. You will have a great time. By the way, you mention Berlin, there is SO much to see there. Be sure to check out the bombed-out church - I can't remember the name, someone else probably will. It was almost destroyed in WW2, but they reinforced it enough to make it structurally sound, and now it serves as a memorial. Very touching. Berlin is also an awesome city.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:42 PM
Response to Reply #3
7. Thanks for the suggestions!
I think I have a link to that T-shirt somewhere in my favorites :-).

My last trip around Europe was in southern Germany and points south as well. My two big regrets from that trip were that I couldn't go to Prague (Czech Republic wasn't on the Eurail Pass, and I was too poor to afford additional train tickets; went to Budapest instead) and missing out on Berlin. Unfortunately, Prague will have to wait for a future trip (just don't have enough time to make it there)...but I am definitely looking forward to Berlin. Just got confirmation of my hostel booking this morning!
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trotsky Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 08:04 PM
Response to Reply #7
32. Budapest was gorgeous also
We hiked up to the palace, and checked out the view of the river going through the city. It's a crying shame American cities lack such picturesque beauty.

Keep trying to make it to Prague! You will LOVE it.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 08:09 PM
Response to Reply #32
33. I took a little tramway thing up one of the hills in Budapest
What an amazing view! Budapest is definitely on my list of places to revisit, hopefully when I'm able to spend a week or more. If Prague can beat that, I'm sure I would love it! :-)
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rucky Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:54 PM
Response to Reply #3
10. Or Just Sew A Maple Leaf Patch to Your Backpack
and avoid it altogether.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:58 PM
Response to Reply #10
12. don't bother
The apology-T will make people smile, but you have to expect no problems without one.
People are curious, not hostile - and most people getting aggressive are too dumb to tell Canada/the US apart or to read the text anyways.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:03 PM
Response to Reply #12
14. That was my experience last time in Europe
The curiosity and friendliness part, not the aggressive dumb people part (sadly, most of the aggressive dumb people I've met traveling have been drunken American college students).
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Kamika Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:38 PM
Response to Original message
5. i been to stockholm
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 02:42 PM by Kamika
There's nothing TOO exciting to be honest but the city in itself is really nice, with alot of water. Be sure to see the "old" city It's two subway stations from the central station, the old city station is named "gamla stan" in swedish (i think), but when I was there there were SO many stores selling tourist crap it kinda ruined the mood but thats the one thing not to miss, the goverment building seems to be a very old building too pretty closeby..

oh dont go out late in stockholm, didnt seem especially safe.. alot of youth gangs going around mugging ppl
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:01 PM
Response to Reply #5
13. That's kind of what I figured from the guidebooks
From what I'm hearing, the old city sounds like my best bet. I'm only likely to be in Stockholm from mid-morning until my overnight train for Berlin leaves, so a walking tour might be just right. :-)

Good to know about the possible safety issue as well -- I should be out of Stockholm on the way in to my conference (which is in a town 45 minutes away) and on the way out to Berlin well before dark, but it's always good to be prepared, especially as I hadn't heard before about any particular problems in Stockholm.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:40 PM
Response to Original message
6. Berlin
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 02:48 PM by Kellanved
Three days sounds good;
You should try to get a Reichstag tour ASAP (probably it's too late already), as the interesting parts aren't shown to unannounced visitors.
http://www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/info/visit/vberl.html

There are many museums, must sees include:
- the Pergamon (Greek/ oriental history)
- the alte Nationalgalerie (19th century art)
- the neue Nationalgalerie (modern)
- the Alte Museum (showing the Taiwanese national treasure at the moment)
- Egyptian Museum (the famous Nofretete)
- the Deutsche Historische Museum/ Pei-Building (Kennedy; Europe)
- the jüdische Museum
- The Wall museum Bernauer Straße


Interesting (but nothing special): Filmmuseum and most others

You should skip Checkpoint Charlie; it is an inaccurate private exhibition ripping off tourists.

For chilling out the open Air "Beach Bars" are the the location of choice; nightlife is found all over the city - you'll find something without problems.

Food:
If you want to eat Insects:
Soda in Prenzlauer Berg (they serve other dishes as well).
Typical fast foods are:
Döner: the fast-food of choice, turkish: meat roasted on a spit with salad and garlic in bread; don't buy a cheap one (3€ + should be the price; you should see layers of unminced meat on the spit).
Curry-Wurst: Sausage with Ketchup and Curry-powder. In East-Berlin it is deep-fried without skin; in West-Berlin it is pan-fried with skin.
Boulette : a meat ball
Pfannkuchen: jelly Donut


Security:
Berlin is relatively safe, but be cautious. Neo-nazis in the eastern outskirts and gangs in the turkish-dominated districts.

Tips:
10% in restaurants; less than 5% is rude. In taxis : round up the fare, no percentage.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:12 PM
Response to Reply #6
15. Wow, thanks for all the advice!
I will definitely check into the Reichstag tour; I hadn't even thought of that! Also, it's great to know which the best museums are; Berlin appears to have so many that it could be overwhelming with only three days. And I had no idea about Checkpoint Charlie; I will have to reconsider putting it on my "list."

Also glad to know that Berlin can be treated like just about any other big city, security-wise (I've been places where you basically can't go out after dark unless in a big group). From the map it looks like I'll be staying near the center of town, so it should be pretty safe.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:55 PM
Response to Reply #15
18. Uhhmmm
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 04:00 PM by Kellanved
In which district?
There are no dangerous central areas that I know of (although some parts of Mitte are deserted at night), but there are a few red-light districts that can be a little disturbing.


On Edit: If you find the time: have a look at Potsdam as well (the Palast)
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:07 PM
Response to Reply #18
20. The hostel's website
Says that it is directly above the U-bahn station at Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz.

I'm hoping to get out to Potsdam; I thought about staying out there but decided it would be a little too far out.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:14 PM
Response to Reply #20
22. cool
That's an interesting part of Mitte.
The Weinbergpark (a small park often used for BBQs) is just around the corner, the notorius Mauerpark isn't far; Prenzlauer Berg and the "lively" part of Mitte are very close.
It's just one station away from a major subway Hub, getting you everywhere fast.

And you'll find GDR artifacts galore.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:36 PM
Response to Reply #22
24. Sounds like I made a pretty good choice!
I have to admit, I often choose lodgings based on a combination of price and accessibility to public transport. It's always nice to find you've ended up in an interesting part of the city as well!
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joeybee12 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:19 PM
Response to Reply #15
23. The Long, Long, EMPTY walk from West to East Berlin
I was there in 1992--not sure if much has changed, but the avenue that leads to East Berlin to where the wall used to be is amazingly wide and eerie--it was just an incredible feeling going down the avenue knowing where you were heading to. I'm not sure if I can describe the feeling as you realize why there's not much on the avenue. It was even more moving than seeing where the wall stood.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:36 PM
Response to Reply #23
25. Everything has changed
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 04:59 PM by Kellanved
Berlin is basically a new city; the "Mauerstreifen" has vanished. You can cross the border without even noticing it.

In the second half of the 90s Berlin became the "In" city, young people move here to study, and want to stay. Companies are moving their HQs, and so on. The eastern half is getting into shape, in some areas all buildings are refurbished.


On edit:
If you meant "Unter den Linden/ Straße des 17. Juni": That is still a long walk with only park to both sides, the Brandenburger Tor at one end, the Siegessäule at the other. But that was the case before the wall as well and the huge central Park ("Tiergarten") is one of the best things about Berlin. (Several western districts weren't part of Berlin before the War, thus the suprisingly long distances. Berlin is larger than NYC.)
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:46 PM
Response to Reply #25
28. I wondered about that
That's what I figured, though, from what I'd heard from fellow travelers I met in hostels my last trip (which was in 1996). Berlin sounds like it will be a fascinating city.
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Kellanved Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:49 PM
Response to Reply #28
29. It has calmed down a little
1996-2000 were the boom-years, but from my biased perspective it's still great.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 05:07 PM
Response to Reply #29
31. Cool
To be honest, when I've traveled I never did much of the going out to clubs and such -- partly because I was alone, and partly because I usually cram so much into each day that I'm too tired to go out and party.
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newyawker99 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Aug-10-03 11:36 AM
Response to Reply #23
34. Congrats joeybee12!! 300 posts
:toast:
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Bossy Monkey Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:45 PM
Response to Original message
8. In my limited experience, it depends on the weather report
Stockholm was achingly beautiful under blue skies; Copenhagen was cloudier when I was there. Probably just as nice a city, but my memories of it are necessarily overcast. If you want to look less American, buy shoes as soon as you get there; the shoes are always the dead giveaway.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:20 PM
Response to Reply #8
16. Aha! That shoe thing may be why so many assumed I was British
on my previous trip -- I had bought Doc Martens during my semester in London, and those are the only shoes I wore for regular daily activities my entire trip through Europe! :-)

(Of course, I *do* realize that lots of Americans wear Docs as well...:-) ).
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rucky Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 02:51 PM
Response to Original message
9. In Denmark...
- Don't miss the Changing of the Guard
- Go to ANY bar that is below ground
- Day trip to Jutland - for the scenery on the train ride more than anything else...but Legoland rawks too if you're so inclined.
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:22 PM
Response to Reply #9
17. I didn't know there was a changing of the guard there
Sounds like it would be interesting though!

But, what is Legoland?
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Kamika Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 03:57 PM
Response to Reply #17
19. omg
its a amusement park ENTIRELY MADE UP OF LEGO!!!!!
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:08 PM
Response to Reply #19
21. Now that might be something to see!
:-)
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lebkuchen Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:42 PM
Response to Original message
26. You could easily spend all your time in either Berlin or Copenhagen
I've never been to Stockholm.

Copenhagen's National Museum is fascinating. That and Berlin's Pergamon are my two favorite. I didn't see all of the National Museum...two days and five hours wasn't enough. The viking heritage is intense, with skeletal remains, some with hair and clothing, a viking chariot dug out of the mud, you name it. The museum delves into prehistory, discussing how Germany and Denmark had been one landmass before plate techtonics, and how the coming and going of ice ages had those people moving north and south to follow the reindeer herds. Northern Germans look like Danes...blonde and red haired folk galore. Denmark used to own Northern Germany (as well as much of Scandanavia). Another museum near there....I don't have the book w/me, but it was opened by the Carlsburg family...Gypnotek...is very beautiful inside...mediteranean feel w/all the Greek/Roman sculptures. Upstairs there is some impressionism, so don't save that for last. Try to go to these two museums on a Wednesday, when it's free.

Copenhagen has a rough-edged feel to it w/the hawkers and beggers off the main drag, whose street name I can't remember. Leave that street and head off right or left into some beautiful plazas and shopping areas. A good restaurant if you like mediteranean food w/lots of vegetables, humus, tsziki, etc, is Riz Raz. It's about $10 for all you can eat. Don't forget to eat Vienna brod ("Danish" pastries) in the a.m. They are delicious. My favorite is the one that has pecans on top, like eating a pecan pie, only not as rich. Great w/a cup of coffee.

For Berlin, take the 100 bus across from the Zoo Bahnhof (train station). You can buy a variety of tickets (all day, two hours, etc) at the booth on the street...I think it's the tourist info office. Go right to the top of the bus (it's doubledecker) and see all the sites. It's very beautiful at night as well. This will take you to the Reichstag, Pergamon, etc. Don't spend time in line for the Reichstag since time isn't on your side. Go later at night...I think it closes around 10:00 pm. Then just walk in and take the elevator to the top for the view. Nearby is the Adlon Hotel, where Clinton, Bush, and Michael Jackson and dangled baby stayed. It's been renovated since the wall came down, but is very historical. The employees inside are very helpful. There is a great view of the Brandenburg Gate from there.

Across the street from Museum Insel, where Pergamon is, is Humboldt University. This is where the bookburning took place...in the plaza. Look for the memorial to that, if it hasn't already been replaced by a parking lot...it's underground, but seen from above on the cobblestone plaza, looking through a plate glass to empty bookshelves below.

The oldest restaurant in the former East Berlin is near here. Head toward the Rathaus and go behind it to a cutesy narrow-streeted neighborhood that has a bit of a touristy feel. The buildings look quaint and old, but were erected under the Soviet regime. Anyway, I think it's called the Nussbaum (nut tree). Good German food here, and cheap. It hasn't changed since Soviet days, and there are pictures of interest on the walls.

There is a Cabaret that Germans like to go to close to Museum Insel...I have never been but will go next time...don't remember the name, but if you look in Lonely Planet Berlin, it will mention it. It's inside a cutesy little plaza with some nice eating places...all this area has been completely renovated, with more going on. It's next to the S bahn tracks. There is a beautiful restaurant in that plaza...can't remember the name, but it's under the cabaret...high ceilings with gold wall paper, chandeliers, and plush furniture...really speaks "old Russia" to me. The food is good, but a bit pricey, so perhaps go there for coffee and a smoke.

Enjoy!
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Piltdown13 Donating Member (829 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:55 PM
Response to Reply #26
30. I'm sure I could!
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 05:03 PM by Piltdown13
I seriously thought about choosing either Copenhagen or Berlin and spending the whole week there (I only mention Stockholm because I'll be going through there on my way out from the conference I'm attending -- taking an overnight train to Berlin because the other train options would put my arrival between 9 and 11 p.m.; I don't like to arrive in an unfamiliar city at night). In the end I decided to split my time so I could get a feel for both places with future visits in mind (sort of what I did on my trip through Germany, Hungary, Austria, and Italy seven years ago).

Thanks for the recommendations! It sounds like I should plan plenty of time at the National Museum in Copenhagen, and that bus trip in Berlin isn't something that was really mentioned in my guide book. :-)

On edit: That also sounds like a good walking tour. I've definitely been thinking about taking one of those.
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lebkuchen Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Aug-09-03 04:42 PM
Response to Original message
27. You could easily spend all your time in either Berlin or Copenhagen
Edited on Sat Aug-09-03 04:47 PM by lebkuchen
I've never been to Stockholm.

Copenhagen's National Museum is fascinating. That and Berlin's Pergamon are my two favorite. I didn't see all of the National Museum...two days and five hours wasn't enough. The viking heritage is intense, with skeletal remains, some with hair and clothing, a viking chariot dug out of the mud, you name it. The museum delves into prehistory, discussing how Germany and Denmark had been one landmass before plate techtonics, and how the coming and going of ice ages had those people moving north and south to follow the reindeer herds. Northern Germans look like Danes...blonde and red haired folk galore. Denmark used to own Northern Germany (as well as much of Scandanavia). Another museum near there....I don't have the book w/me, but it was opened by the Carlsburg family...Gypnotek...is very beautiful inside...mediteranean feel w/all the Greek/Roman sculptures. Upstairs there is some impressionism, so don't save that for last. Try to go to these two museums on a Wednesday, when it's free.

Copenhagen has a rough-edged feel to it w/the hawkers and beggers off the main drag, whose street name I can't remember. Leave that street and head off right or left into some beautiful plazas and shopping areas. A good restaurant if you like mediteranean food w/lots of vegetables, humus, tsziki, etc, is Riz Raz. It's about $10 for all you can eat. Don't forget to eat Vienna brod ("Danish" pastries) in the a.m. They are delicious. My favorite is the one that has pecans on top, like eating a pecan pie, only not as rich. Great w/a cup of coffee.

For Berlin, take the 100 bus across from the Zoo Bahnhof (train station). You can buy a variety of tickets (all day, two hours, etc) at the booth on the street...I think it's the tourist info office. Go right to the top of the bus (it's doubledecker) and see all the sites. It's very beautiful at night as well. This will take you to the Reichstag, Pergamon, etc. Don't spend time in line for the Reichstag since time isn't on your side. Go later at night...I think it closes around 10:00 pm. Then just walk in and take the elevator to the top for the view. Nearby is the Adlon Hotel, where Clinton, Bush, and Michael Jackson and dangled baby stayed. It's been renovated since the wall came down, but is very historical. The employees inside are very helpful. There is a great view of the Brandenburg Gate from there.

Across the street from Museum Insel, where Pergamon is, is Humboldt University. This is where the bookburning took place...in the plaza. Look for the memorial to that, if it hasn't already been replaced by a parking lot...it's underground, but seen from above on the cobblestone plaza, looking through a plate glass to empty bookshelves below.

The oldest restaurant in the former East Berlin is near here. Head toward the Rathaus and go behind it to a cutesy narrow-streeted neighborhood that has a bit of a touristy feel. The buildings look quaint and old, but were erected under the Soviet regime. Anyway, I think it's called the Nussbaum (nut tree). Good German food here, and cheap. It hasn't changed since Soviet days, and there are pictures of interest on the walls.

There is a Cabaret that Germans like to go to close to Museum Insel...I have never been but will go next time...don't remember the name, but if you look in Lonely Planet Berlin, it will mention it. It's inside a cutesy little plaza with some nice eating places...all this area has been completely renovated, with more going on. It's next to the S bahn tracks. There is a beautiful restaurant in that plaza...can't remember the name, but it's under the cabaret...high ceilings with gold wall paper, chandeliers, and plush furniture...really speaks "old Russia" to me. The food is good, but a bit pricey, so perhaps go there for coffee and a smoke.

Enjoy!

On edit: If you're fairly fit and are feeling energetic, I recommend the Yellow Walking Tour (or called something like that), which begins at the McDonalds across from the Zoo Bahnhof. You will see a placard sign up around the station. It's run by a group of Aussies/Brits, who are very informative. You can pick their mind for their recommendations when they take you to a coffeeshop for a break. They are full of info, and will walk you from west to east...I did it in Feb. over ice, so summer should be a piece of cake. It's very hot there now, so bring bottled water and a hat.
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