My cat is having kittens right now!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MotorCityMan]

She delivered two about 1/2 hour ago. One was born dead. The other is alive.

Should I be doing anything besides worrying? Never gone thru this before.

[Suich]

1. I'd keep an eye on her and quit worrying!

My cat took care of everything herself!


Good luck!

[MotorCityMan]

2. Thanks...

[Suich]

3. How's she doing, MCM?

Any more kittens?

[MotorCityMan]

15. No, just the one

She is taking care of him now...

[Hissyspit]

4. Be very quiet. Are they indoors?

If they are indoors, just make sure they are comfortable and keep an eye on them. If they are outdoors, move them indoors as soon as you feel you can do it safely.

And get the kitten(s) spayed or neutered! NO DEBATE NO EXCUSE

[LeftyMom]

5. Best thing you can do is leave her alone

Just keep an eye and if she doesn't lick and otherwise try to revive any slow starters you can rub them down with a towel to stimulate circulation and to try to perk them up (but mom's touch is better for this, so let her do her thing if she will.) Other than that she should instinctually handle the job. Make sure mama kitty has plenty of water and high quality food, she'll need it for lactation especially if she has a large litter.

Oh, and to follow up on what Hissyspit said: Call the vet now and make an appointment, you'd be amazed how fast miss kitty can get herself knocked up again.

[Hissyspit]

7. My mother had one do it within a week and a half.

Didn't have ANY money at the time and I kept telling her 'get it fixed now, get it fixed now.'

[LeftyMom]

9. When I was a teenager

our neighbors moved out and abandoned thier cat. By the time we got her to come in our house and stay she was heavily pregnant. She had seven kittens in my closet (all lived and were healthy, which was amazing as she was a very tiny cat and maybe a year old at most) then took off as soon as they were starting to wean- I don't doubt she was off to make more kittens as she was crying at the door already. She had a vet appointment already scheduled but we never saw her again. :(

Mama kitties can be as tricky as a teenage girl when it comes to sneaking out, so as soon as she can she needs to be fixed and in the meantime she needs to be watched very carefully so she doesn't get out.

[Hissyspit]

6. The Birth Process:

http://cats.about.com/cs/pregnancybirth/a/pregnancybirth_3.htm

The Birth Process and Possible Complications

The cause of the induction of the birth process is still unknown, but factors include the size and weight of the uterus, size and weight of the fetus(es), and hormonal balances of both the fetus and the queen.

During the birth process, rhythmical uterine contractions gradually increase to push the fetus out of the uterus and into the birth canal. The placentas may be expelled at the same time as the kittens, or within 24 hours after birth. The kittens are born within their amniotic sacs, which the queen will remove. If she ignores the kitten and it is still in its sac, it will be up to you to carefully cut the sac and stimulate the kitten's breathing by rubbing it gently with a rough dry towel. It is a good practice to count the placentas to make sure all are expelled.

The mother cat will stimulate the kittens to breathe by washing them with her rough tongue. She will also sever the umbilical cord by chewing on it approximately one inch from the kitten's body. At this time, she may eat the placenta. The kittens will immediately gravitate toward a nipple, latch on, and commence to nurse, as can be seen in the accompanying photo.

There is often a 10 to 60 minute delay between births, although longer periods of time are not uncommon. If there is a delay of over four hours and you are sure there are remaining kittens, the queen should be examined by a veterinarian.

The mother cat and kittens should be examined by your veterinarian within 24 hours of birthing, and MomCat can, and should, be spayed as soon as the kittens are weaned.

Potential Problems

Cats may sometimes be prone to certain problems, either during pregnancy or after parturition. For this reason it is important to have at hand the phone number and location of the closest emergency veterinary clinic. (Everyone who has lived with cats for any length of time knows that they never get sick during normal clinic hours!) The following are a few conditions to be aware of, so that you can spot the symptoms if they should occur, and take proper action.

Spontaneous Abortion. This may occur between the 4th and 7th week of pregnancy, and sometimes happens because of undernourishment of the queen or some defect of the fetus or fetuses. There is not much that can be done, but a veterinary check is necessary to ensure that any remaining fetuses are still alive.
Stillborn Kittens. Sadly, this sometimes happens. All you can do is to remove the baby from the area so the mother can continue uninterrupted with birthing the other kittens.
Difficulty in Birthing. If part of a kitten presents itself out of the vaginal opening, but nothing else happens, you may have to assist with the birth. Dr. Mike gives instructions for this sort of feline "midwifery" in his excellent column.
Mastitis. Although some inflammation around the nipples may be normal, excessive heat, hard swellings, bruised areas, or obvious pain would indicate the need for a veterinary examination.
Postpartum Hemorraghing. Although some bleeding after giving birth is normal, excessive hemorraghing is an emergency and calls for veterinary intervention.
Purulent Discharge. A foul-smelling discharge from the vagina or the mammary glands signifies the need for a veterinary visit.
Eclampsia. This is relatively rare in cats, and occurs either late in pregnancy or, more commonly, within the first three weeks after delivery. It is thought to involve calcium loss in the queen, either by lack of sufficient calcium in the diet, or poor utilization of the calcium present. Symptoms include restlessness, irritability, progressing to a stiff gait, poor coordination and/or vomiting. Eclampsia can be fatal if not treated in time.

This is not a complete list of things that could go wrong, but the chances are that your pregnant cat will have a completely normal pregnancy and delivery.

[Hissyspit]

8. More Advice!

http://cats.about.com/od/reproduction/a/birthprocess.htm

Care of a Pregnant Cat
From Franny Syufy,
Your Guide to Cats.

Lesson 5: Helping With the Birth Process

The big day has arrived when your pregnant cat is ready to give birth to her kittens. This process is technically called "queening." Chances are that you will not need to do anything to help with the birth process except to be with your cat to encourage her. You may even wake one morning to discover that your pregnant cat has given birth during the night, and is comfortably nursing her kittens. However, you should know how to spot potential problems and what action to take, should she need assistance with the birth process.

The cat may vomit. The abdomen may "drop" a few days before labor, and the nipples may become larger and pinker.

Active Labor

Contractions will start and you will see the appearance of the amniotic sac. You may also see a discharge of blood or other colored fluid.
Your biggest role may be to prepare the birthing area and move your queen into it.

Supplies for the Birthing Area

1. Newspapers
   to line the delivery box. Place a stack in the bottom of the box and remove one-by-one as they become soiled.
   
2. Clean towels
   for helping to clean and stimulate the kittens, if necessary.
   
3. Paper towels
   for the same purpose.
   
4. An extra box
   for placing the kittens in while the queen is still birthing. Place a heating pad in the bottom of the box with a blanket or several towels over it. The idea is to keep the kittens from being chilled, without burning them. Never place them directly on a heating pad. Drape another clean towel over the top of the box to hold the heat in and to keep out drafts.
   
5. A laundry basket or extra box
   for discarding soiled towels

These are the most basic supplies you will need. Since I am neither a veterinarian nor an expert on birthing kittens, for the rest of this lesson you will be turned over to a highly qualified veterinarian, Jennifer Prince, DVM. Her article on Queening (Giving Birth)provides you with not only an extensive list of supplies, but all the information you will need to assist with the birth process, should human intervention become necessary. Be sure to read it several times well before your pregnant cat's labor begins.

Length of Time for the Total Birth Process

In general, it may take up to six hours for a queen to give birth to all her kittens. The first kitten should arrive within an hour of the start of active labor, and subsequent kittens will take anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes. She will rest for 15 minutes or so between kittens, and during this time she should be allowed to nurse and clean the kittens that have been born. If you have been keeping the kittens in another box, move them back with the mother cat and help them find a nipple. This is also a good time for you to offer her food or a sip of KMR or plain, unflavored yoghurt. Although in rare cases a healthy kitten is born after the seven hour period, you should take the queen and her kittens to the vet for a checkup once seven hours passes and you are sure there are other kittens inside.

Summary of Potential Problems During Labor

• Extended Contractions without Birth
  More than one hour of strong contractions indicates a veterinary emergency, and your cat should be seen by a vet immediately. Take her and any kittens to your vet.
  
• Retained Placenta
  A retained placenta can cause uterine infection. It is important to count the number of placentas (one per kitten) to keep on top of this potential problem.
  
• Kitten Lodged in the Birth Canal
  A kitten that is lodged in the birth canal for more than 10 minutes is in distress, and your intervention may be necessary. Dr. Mike Richards offers instructions for assisting the delivery in an article on his excellent web site. Note that although most kittens are born head first, "breech," or tail-first births occur about 40% of the time, and are considered normal.

Once all the kittens are born, your queen will normally be caring for and feeding them. Make sure she has ample quantities of kitten food and KMR now, and for the rest of the time until the kittens are weaned. And if anything seems amiss with either your queen or the kittens, seek veterinary care immediately.

[Hissyspit]

10. "Queening: Giving Birth" Still more ADVICE, MCM!

http://cats.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=cats&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.peteducation.com%2Farticle.cfm%3Fcls%3D1%26cat%3D1366%26amp%3Barticleid%3D919

Queening (Giving Birth)
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

Giving birth in cats is called 'queening.' As the delivery date approaches, preparations should be made 10-14 days ahead of time, and the necessary supplies should be collected and placed together.

A place to deliver

The queen should be given a box (cardboard box, laundry basket, etc.) in which she can have her kittens. It should be easy to clean and lined with soft blankets. Do not use material that kittens could get caught or lost in such as small or torn blankets or shredded paper. Allow her one to two weeks before her due date to become comfortable with the area you have decided to use for the delivery. It should be clean, dry, darkened, and quiet. Do not allow people or other pets to disturb her while she is in the delivery area.

During delivery, newspapers may be used to line the box with new ones added as they become wet. Once she is finished, the entire box is cleaned and lined with clean papers and a blanket. Do not use strong smelling cleaners in the delivery area, as the mother and offspring identify each other by smell. Do not allow the queen to have the kittens in the litter box, as that increases the likelihood of disease. Privacy, cleanliness, dryness, and warmth are needed for an ideal queening location.

Supplies

A second box to place kittens into during sibling births may be necessary. This protects the new kittens, if the queen is moving a lot. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. The kittens should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads as they may be burned. Another 1-2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the kittens are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The kittens can be placed with the queen between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next sibling arrives.

A stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off kittens, if necessary. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw the towels in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach to minimize staining of the towels. Paper towels work well to dry the kittens and reduce the need for doing laundry afterward.

Other supplies to have on hand include the following:

Sterile hemostats and blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cord if necessary

Alcohol and matches to sterilize the hemostats and scissors

Heavy sewing thread, dental floss, or suture to tie umbilical cords if necessary

Lubricating (petroleum) jelly

Several pairs of sterile surgical gloves

Rubber pediatric bulb syringe

Surgical antiseptic scrub/iodine

Tube feeder, syringe, bottle and nipple, and kitten milk replacer such as KMR

Gram scale to weigh newborns

Stethoscope

Nail polish to mark kittens for identification if necessary

Thermometer - rectal to monitor the queen's temperature

Household thermometer to monitor the air temperature in the box

High-quality kitten food, yogurt, and/or vanilla ice cream to offer the queen during and after delivery

Fresh water for the queen

Regular number for the veterinary clinic and the emergency veterinary clinic number and directions

Numbers for family/friends/sitter to watch the children during delivery and if necessary to go to the veterinary clinic

Books and information on delivery and care of newborn kittens

Watch or clock to record times of delivery

Camera, film, and extra battery if she will allow photographs to be taken

Ink pen and note pad to mark the arrival time, sex, weight, color, and markings, and if the placenta was expelled

Preparing the queen

The hair on the queen's belly and around the tail may need to be shaved if it is long or thick to make it easier for the kittens to find the nipples and to keep her clean.

Stages of labor

Average gestation is about 60-63 days. It can be about 1 week either side of that date and still be normal. Several changes that may be noticeable in the queen the last week before delivery include a distended, 'dropped' abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged nipples, and full mammary glands. Loss of appetite and nervousness alternating with sleep also indicate the time is near.

Labor and delivery have three stages. In the first stage, the cervix is being dilated and softened. She may moan, meow, or pant during labor. She may make frequent trips to the litter box which should be moved close, and she may show nesting behavior such as rearranging the towels in the nesting box. She may lick her mammary and perineal area more vigorously. Abdominal contractions are not evident in this stage. She may be restless, secretive, and try to hide. This is why the box is in a quiet area in the house. The lights can be dimmed if she is more comfortable. Stage 1 may take 12-24 hours and ends when the first kitten passes into the pelvic canal.

The queen is able to delay parturition, if she is moved to a strange place or strange people or animals are around. She may also stop delivery for several hours between kittens, if she perceives any disturbance to the delivery area.

Stage two starts when she begins actively pushing to deliver the first kitten. The first kitten tends to take the longest to deliver, as this kitten passing through the cervix fully dilates the cervix. She may deliver standing, laying, or squatting. The abdominal muscles assist in the delivery. She should deliver within 15-30 minutes of the start of contractions for each kitten. Normally, 3-5 strong contractions are necessary to deliver each kitten.

The amniotic fluid (water bubble) is seen first. The kitten may come head first or rear paws first. Either way is normal. As soon as the kitten is born, the queen should remove the sac from the kitten's face. She will clean herself, the newborn, and the birthing area. Her licking stimulates the kitten to breathe and start moving. The kitten should be breathing and moving within seconds. The queen will tear the umbilical cord an inch or two away from the kitten's body. If she does not, clamp the cord between two hemostats about half an inch from the body and cut it or tear it between the hemostats. If the umbilical cord bleeds, tie it off with the suture. Kittens have gotten tangled in the umbilical cord, and if it dries tangled around the leg, they may lose the leg. Make sure to remove the placenta and cord, if the queen does not. If you need to pick up the kitten right after birth, keep it in a head-down position to allow fluid to drain out of the lungs and nasal passages.

A kitten that had a difficult time being born may be weak or not breathing when finally delivered. The bulb syringe should be used to clear the airways. Some breeders will 'swing' the kitten downward between their own legs. Be very careful if you elect to do so. Kittens have been thrown across rooms when the person loses hold of them. The pressure of the swing helps to clear the airways, but it will also swing the brain against the skull. When fluid has been removed from the air passages, the kitten needs to be roughly, but carefully, rubbed with a cloth to stimulate the breathing. Try CPR on a nonbreathing kitten for at least 5 minutes to see if he will breathe. Some kittens, especially if born by c-section, need 20 minutes of work to survive. Once the kitten starts giving lusty cries and moving, the immediate danger should be past.

At this point, the kitten can be presented to the mother. Allowing the mother to lick the kitten will continue to stimulate respirations.

Kittens may attempt to start nursing right away or may take several minutes to recover from birth. Some queens do not nurse kittens until all the kittens are delivered.

Stage three is the delivery of the placenta. Each kitten has a placenta and it is usually delivered with the kitten. Keep track of the placentas on the notepad, as she may have two kittens and then two placentas. The queen will usually eat the placenta. After two or three, the owner can remove some of them to prevent her from eating them all. The placenta does offer nourishment to the queen, but too many may cause diarrhea or vomiting.

She will repeat the second and third stages of labor until all the kittens are born. Some queens will have all the kittens within an hour and others will take several hours for each kitten. Expect about 2-6 hours to deliver all the kittens. If she is resting comfortably and caring for the kittens that have already arrived, just watch her. If she is continuing to contract and does not deliver another kitten within half an hour, contact your veterinarian right away.

She may like a drink of fresh water or small amount of food during labor and delivery.

Allow the kittens to nurse between deliveries, if the queen will allow. This will stimulate release of the hormone oxytocin which will help in the delivery of the next kitten as well as the "let down" of milk. The kittens are only able to absorb the colostrum through their intestines for the first 24 hours of life. After that time, they are no longer able to get any immunity from the dam. The queen should be licking their perineal area and abdomen to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue this for 2-3 weeks.

[Hissyspit]

11. You can try CPR on the non-breathing kitty.

It is worth a try. See my previous post.

[Blue Gardener]

12. I linked this to the pets group

Lots of cat people there that can give great advice.

[Hissyspit]

13. I hope he's reading it.

[MotorCityMan]

16. Thanks, everyone....

I appreciate so much all the information.

I did try gently blowing in the kitten's mouth, as my late partner did when we bred puppies. No luck. It was pretty black male.

Lana has only delivered the 2. The other one seems healthy and she is cleaning and nursing it. I haven't even seen the kitten's sex yet.

And, as soon as the kitten(s) can handle her being gone, Lana is getting fixed and groomed.

I'm going to go keep an eye on her.

[Hissyspit]

18. Thanks for the update. Good luck.

[tammywammy]

19. My vet said 6 weeks after giving birth

I adopted a cat that was pregnant. Two weeks later I had 5 little kittens. 6 weeks later (almost to the day), my diva was at the vet getting fixed. The kittens didn't have a problem by that point that she was gone.

The kitty in my avatar is the one kitten of hers that I kept.

[rug]

14. Boil some water!!!!!!!!

[KyndCulture]

17. I'm coming in late...just got home... but about the dead baby.. .

Motor there is probably nothing you could have done.... so long as the sac and fluids were away from the babies mouth and nose, mother nature tends to take care of these things herself.

My girl had 3 stillborns last month.

How's the live baby? Eating yet?


And you KNOW we require pictures of just born things.

[MotorCityMan]

20. Update

Mother and kitten are doing fine. He/she is an active little bugger. I moved Lana's food and water by her. She is inside and picked a good out of the way spot under the dining room table to have them.

She hasn't had anymore. I told myself to be ready for stillborns, as I have bred puppies and experienced it before, but I'm so sad to lose one. I was kind of hoping for a bigger litter (although I think the consumation was interupted early). I am so grateful that Lana is holding up very nicely and that she has a strong looking baby.

I didn't even get to see the sex, and it's driving me nuts!!!!! I don't care either way, just want to start thinking of names....

I will take pics and post tomorrow if I can. This is Lana's first (last and only!) time being a mother and I want to leave her alone to adjust and care for her baby.

Thanks again for all the great responses, especially Hissyspit for all the articles. I'll be reading up as I am definitely keeping it..

[bluethruandthru]

21. Congratulations!

Does this make you a grandfather?

I'm so sorry about the stillborn furbaby. It's good that mama and little one are doing well. Enjoy your new addition. Can't wait for the pics! :woohoo:

[Hissyspit]

22. Congratulations! Have a cigar...

[demnan]

23. Congratulations on your new grand kitty!

Hope Mom and kitten are doing well. Get a picture when you think they might be comfortable with that and take care.

[Eurobabe]

24. Sorry about the one that didn't make it, how's the momma

and the other kit-10? Pix please when you are able. We love :loveya: kittens!!