Reply #25: All right then...

[wiggs]

...good that you have connections in Naples because it is a crazy place. Bustling, interesting....we didn't spend a lot of time there, but since you have connections, they will give you the best info.

We stayed a week in Sorrento in an apartment in Marina Grande... the most local and authentic portion of Sorrento. As someone else said, Sorrento is geared to tourists, and is the least authentic of all the places we've been to in Italy. Having said that, there are lots of interesting people there and it is very pretty. Food is geared towards tourists (a notch down from what we were used to). Find places that make good, simple pizza caprese. Sample the local mozzarela. There are lots of night clubs and music venues that might appeal to two young travelers. There's a happening passegiata (evening stroll) in the center of town. You won't find a ton of cultural Italy here...although ancient history is interesting.

Our best days were spent cooking in our place or away from Sorrento. We saw the world cup final in Massa Lubrense...a peak experience.

If I were staying in the area again, I'd stay in Vico Equense...a food-oriented little town perched above the water on the peninsula. Great restaurants and feels local. There are tons of little farms to visit in the area.

We went to Pompeii and Paestum, both. Pompeii is mind-blowing and interesting, while Paestum is out on its own in a meadow and is magic. There's more info, people, variety, structures, and artifacts at Pompeii but we preferred Paestum. My advice: get a good recommended guide at Pompeii rather than one of the ones who pester you at the entrance and you'll have a better experience...makes a big difference. If you do get down to Paestum...check out Castellabate...not the marina, but the original hilltown. Beautiful, friendly, small, and worth a night or two. We stayed at a wonderful family hotel there that we'll get back to someday.

Capri is worth a trip, but get away from the most touristy centro quickly...get to the back side and to Anacapri. I suggest avoiding the tourist boats to the blue grotto and instead renting your own rubber zodiac at the small (but nice) marina on the back side and motor around yourself into Green Grotto, Champagne Grotto, and others...jumping in whenever you want. If you like shopping, then stay in the central village and you'll see all the designer stores.

Amalfi coast is nice and you should see it, although be prepared for more tourists and tourist shops. We rented another boat and avoided traffic and parking by boating ourselves around. We took a bus from Sorrento to Positano, rented the boat for a while, then took the ferry back to Sorrento. Good way to go.

Got to go...Rome later.