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I have a friend who's brother is serving in Afghanistan and someone wrote him what looks like, tastes like, smells like, sounds like....
here's what he says...
Looks like: Someone dropped a bunch of tents and metal boxes in the > middle of uninhabitable, arid, high-plains desert, connected them all > with gravel roads, dug out some sewage tanks that I call the "shit > farm", threw some barbed wire, basketball courts, a concrete hockey > rink, a ring of shops called "The Boardwalk", hundreds of pick-ups, 18 > wheelers, buses, helicopters, and airplanes into it and said, "Live > There." > > Tastes like: Sand. 24 hours a day. Sand like talcom powder. In your > mouth, on your tongue, between your teeth, in your ears and under your > eyelids. The food tastes bland, unsalted, generic contents strewn > together in quasi-familiar-looking dishes, on paper plates with > plasticware. You get the name brands for drinks like Coke, Sprite, V8. > But, Dr. Pepper, Mountain Dew, and A&W Rootbeer are rare and valued > commodities. Some of the foods are genuine, like the bleu cheese > chunks and Swiss cheese. This being a NATO base, some of these items > are more cheaply brought in real form, rather than generically. > The cigarettes are produced in Europe, so more arsenic with a lemony > twang and drying aftertaste. The coffee is strong, the lattes flavored > with artificial sweetener, the milk is re-hydrated. The fried eggs are > nice, true tasting. Don't eat the sausage. > > Smells like: Sewage from the shit farm, especially when they drain and > turn it. TCNs (Third Country Nationals - brought in as labor) from > India, Nepal, Kenya, and the Phillipines: it's a distinguishable smell > like dirty teenage boys after a sleepover with barefeet and farts. It > is as recognizable to the group of them as is a chicken coup, cow > pasture, or goat farm. The Kenyans are more musty. The Indians are > more ripe and saturated with a heavy cab-driver-butt smell. The > Nepalis are more twangy, tangy, fermented, bubbly still with the hint > of buttcrack. The Phillipinos are actually not as bad, as they have > perfected the art of being lady-like. Homosexuality is rampant among > them---outwardly, without shame, or for that matter dignity...at > night, in the same bed, and in the same pants. Sometimes it smells > like grilled meat from the Kabob Shop, then a wave of the shit farm > drifts by, and then fresh coffee, and then diesel exhaust, and sand, > and the shit farm again. > > Sounds like: Generators, truck engines, groups of foreign language > chatter, roaring jet engines taking off, passing over, landing, > helicopter blades all night on patrol. Rocks on the gravel drives > "pop" under the weight of five-foot tall rubber tires on Hemits and > forklifts. The coffee shop at the boardwalk plays familiar music over > loud speakers and people cheer on the hockey match and the basketball > game, while .50 caliber gunfire goes unnoticed outside the wire. > Gravel crunches under feet with every step of every soldier and > civilian; somewhere an MPs siren hoots at someone for probably no > particular reason. On the windy days, when the sand blankets the > surrounding mountains, the artillery units train and bring back the > familiar thuds and thumps and bu-fumps of explosive dirt mushrooms. > You can't see them though. You can only faintly hear them past the > choppers and planes and chatter, but you can always feel them in your > stomach. And, if your stomach had bones they would rattle. > > Feels like: Sand, grit, filth, and human oil. Feels like unsettled > stomachs from the unrefrigerated food, the mineral-rich bottled water, > the caffeine, and the anxiety. The temperature swings 40 degrees from > night to day to night. Last night it was 29. Today it was over 70. > Skin feels dry, crisp, raw, and flaky like rubbing a fish the wrong > direction. If I had hair, it would be dusty, the oil trapping sand. > Nostrils are choked and chaffed, hands scabbed and ashy. Sand abrades > everything, even eyeballs are sore, swollen, blood red. The nights > feels sharply cold. The days feel stagnant, motionless besides the > rise of temperature. You can almost feel the shit farm fart up your > nose and collide with your brain. Feet are always sweaty, chapped, and > itchy. Showers are either melted ice or molten lava. It is impossible > to be comfortable (as a foreigner to this place.) It is about 70 > degrees now, with the sun just touching the horizon. In an hour it > will be 50 degrees. By midnight, 30. It is a relaxed environment on > Kandahar Air Base, being a NATO establishment. Rules are relaxed, > soldiers have beards, women wear shorts, civilians wear hats indoors, > and everyone has a cell phone. It feels unnatural, to be so calm and > at war. But, this is Afghanistan, where war has bonded with the sand > and there are no surprises. Nobody cares about this country, even the > locals who quickly migrate with the politics. Only those who have > power love this land. To others, it is either a mountain pass or a > heroin fix. It feels like a wasteland....a land that might otherwise > be beautiful, but instead has put up with eons and eons of bullshit.
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