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Need to paint a Forest green wall Burgundy

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merci_me Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-14-05 02:53 PM
Original message
Need to paint a Forest green wall Burgundy
I have a Forest green accent wall and found a pair of chairs that are perfect for the room, but they're Forest green and will go against the green wall. So, I need to change the accent wall to Burgundy.

I've heard that reds are the worst paint to use. I've heard it can take several coats to get a true color. I don't know if that was talking about clear reds only or if Burgundy would be the same. Anyone have experience with it? The wall will be primed first, but then what?

Mary
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AlCzervik Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-14-05 04:56 PM
Response to Original message
1. What i would do is use tinted primer, most likely kilz
that will help but you'll still proably need 3 coats of the new color.
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LiberalUprising Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-14-05 07:37 PM
Response to Original message
2. Reds and bugundy are
Edited on Sat May-14-05 07:41 PM by LiberalUprising
horrible to get a consistant coverage with, though it can be done.

As stated above use a primer, either Kilz or Zinnser that has a tint of your color to it, though most times when tinting a primer red it will turn pink, this is ok. Be prepared to apply 4 - 5 coats of your topcoat paint.

Let each coat dry completly before applying consecutive coats. On the final coat paint to a wet edge (ie. do not let previous area painted dry), two people work well for this, have one cut in and the other roll behind him. Start the cut in first.

The above is impotant especially if you are using a satin or eggshell finish. Also be aware if using a satin or eggshell finish that you will not be able to touch it up without seeing the spot where you did the touch up. A flat or semigloss is much more forgiving for touch ups, but on dark colors should still be done as explained above, if not you will see the sheen difference when paint dries.

Use a lambswool roller sleeve for better coverage, I usually use a 3/4 or 1 inch nap for walls and a quality brush (Purdy makes the best), they are more expensive but will save you time cutting in a good edge and will last a year or longer with everyday use.

Also stay away from Home Depot and Lowes paints, they are harder to work with and will require more coats that Sherwin Williams, Ben Moore or other quality paint store brands. You will may pay a couple dollars more per gallon but the time and aggravation saved will be worth it.

Whatever you do DO NOT USE RALPH LAUREN, it is sheer crap.

(on edit)
Have you thought about doing a burgundy wash over the green?


Hope this helps
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Stinky The Clown Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun May-15-05 11:00 AM
Response to Reply #2
3. I'll endorse that about paint brands
None of the 'house brands' are any good. We've been using Sherwin Williams from our local Sherwin Williams store. While it may be a few bux more per gallon, it is actually cheaper 'on the wall'. We've had great luck getting one coat coverage with colors we thought would need two or three.

We've also been pleased with their specialty paints. We wanted to do a quick update to a bathroom with ancient melamine cabinets while we put off a complete remodel. They had a primer (very pricey) that worked over the melamine so we could use a relatively low grade paint. The whole project was a success. That led us to use the same primer in our basment bathroom. It had melamine walls (it was a former homeowner remodel that we've been living with for more than 20 years!). We primed them and painted them with a good quality paint. Other than the splines that join the mealmine sheets, the walls now look like drywall. A huge update for a reasonable price.
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merci_me Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue May-17-05 08:15 PM
Response to Original message
4. Thanks for the great advise......
we may be very sorry we got such a great buy on the chairs. LOL

The green paint went on really well. It was an Olympic brand house paint. I hate trusting paint and Olympic had the perfect green pre-mixed. I had planned to start first, looking at Olympic brand exterior paint, for a pre-mix or at least a formula that had the really DEEP richness. Is this not a good idea, with the red?

I'll trust you guys, cause you seem to know what you're talking about. It will be at least a week, before we can get to the painting in there.

Mary
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Stinky The Clown Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue May-17-05 11:34 PM
Response to Reply #4
5. Take a swatch of fabric, or even a whole cushion, to the paint store
We've had Sherwin Willimas mix paint based on actual color samples. They have a thing that 'reads' color and then gives the operator a formula for the right tint additives. They've matched fabric and even a color from a photograph in a book for us. They test a schmear of the paint right there in the store for a match after its mixed.

We've been pleased with the results.
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merci_me Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed May-18-05 08:06 AM
Response to Reply #5
6. I make my own paint samples..........
The deep Burgundy is in a 5x8 oriental carpet that Jim framed and it's bolted to the wall behind the king size bed, to form a headboard that backs the bed and the side tables and lamps. Not gonna schlep it to the paint store, lol. Also the frame is mahogany, so getting a perfect burgundy to go against the mahogany is touchy. The carpet border is just the right burgundy to work with the mahogany.

I keep an massive collection of craft paints for the grandkids, the kind you get at Michaels in those $1 bottles. When I want a color, I get a paper plate and start dabbing and mixing shades, until I get the right one and paint it on a piece of wood and take it to the store. I've had great luck with paint matching. Sometimes I have to pick up another color or two at Michaels to hit it just right. Kind of like making sauce, ya know?

Mary
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