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HIS BOSTON; To Trace Kerry's Footsteps, Get a Good Pair of Sneakers New York Times, Late Edition - Final, Sec. 15, p 2 07-25-2004 By PAM BELLUCK
BOSTON is brimming with politicians who owe their origins to specific neighborhoods and who will perpetually be identified with Dorchester or East Boston or the North End.
But John Kerry is living proof that, even in Boston, all politicians are not local. The senator, who was born in Denver and spent his first year in Groton, Mass., has lived and worked in so many different places in and around Boston that tracing his path requires more than a good pair of walking shoes.
Of course, in one way, the entire city is part of Mr. Kerry's history since his mother descended from the family of John Winthrop, the first governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. Another maternal ancestor is John Murray Forbes, a 19th century pioneer in trading with China, who helped found the Union Club, a private club formed to rally support for the Union cause during the Civil War. It still exists as a club at 8 Park Street in the Beacon Hill neighborhood.
A few blocks away, Mr. Kerry and his wife, Teresa Heinz Kerry, now own a five-story, elevator-equipped 18th century red-brick town house at 19 Louisburg Square, a former Episcopal convent that Mr. Kerry paid $2.2 million for in 1997 and mortgaged in December for $6.4 million to generate cash for his presidential race. Soon after they moved in, Mr. Kerry and his wife ruffled a few neighborhood feathers when he paid to move a fire hydrant to create more parking in front of his home.
In response to questions about important places to him in the Boston area, Mr. Kerry said that at Louisburg Square, "Teresa and I love to spend time in the kitchen there cooking our favorite recipes for each other. My specialty remains chocolate chip cookies." (More on that later.)
But many of the landmarks of Mr. Kerry's upbringing and early professional life are outside the city.
There is 359 Orchard Street in Millis, a suburb about 30 miles southwest of Boston where Mr. Kerry lived for five years as a young boy."Millis is where I learned to walk and talk and my family would tell you I haven't stopped doing either ever since," he said.
There is West Newton, just west of Boston, where 13-year-old John Kerry, whose parents were in Europe because of his father's diplomatic postings, spent a year at the Fessenden School for boys. He made a close friend there, Richard Pershing, grandson of General John Joseph Pershing, and said he recalled himself as "a short, chubby and energetic member of the football team."
Mr. Kerry and his first wife, Julia Thorne, later lived in Newton's leafy Chestnut Hill section at 206 Chestnut Hill Road.
There is Manchester-by-the-Sea, about 30 miles northeast of Boston, where Mr. Kerry's great-aunt, Clara Winthrop, often entertained him at her estate, which included a bowling alley and, the senator said, was the first place he shot a gun. "I still remember the kick-back,'" he said.
And there is 198 Holyrood in Lowell, a working-class town 30 miles northwest of Boston, where Mr. Kerry, after shopping around for a district to run for office from, made an unsuccessful bid for Congress in 1972. "Lowell taught me humility," Mr. Kerry said, adding that in nearby Lawrence, he befriended a grocery store owner named Frank Biongorno, who became "my father in Lawrence, and took me in, and used to share dinners with me a couple nights a week."
Mr. Kerry also worked for three years at the Middlesex district attorney's office in Cambridge, which is separated from Boston by the Charles River, the meandering waterway along which Mr. Kerry says he still likes to bike.
In Boston, where Mr. Kerry had a private law practice at 60 State Street, he portrays himself as a bit of a history junkie, listing among his favorite sites Faneuil Hall and the Old North Church. He is sentimental about the swan boats in the Public Garden where he says he used to take his daughters, Alexandra and Vanessa. Besides indulging in sports ranging from windsurfing to golf, Mr. Kerry says he loves going to the FleetCenter so he can "get lost in hockey games."
The place with the saddest meaning for Mr. Kerry must be the Copley Plaza Hotel, where in 1921, Mr. Kerry's grandfather, Frederick, whose shoe business apparently was failing, went into a restroom and shot himself in the head. Mr. Kerry has said he did not know the details or place of his grandfather's death until reporters from The Boston Globe showed him newspaper articles about it last year.
But Boston holds mostly warm memories for the senator. There is McGann's pub at 197 Portland Street, not far from the FleetCenter, where the senator remembers hoisting a pint in 1996 with former Gov. William F. Weld, to "put aside our differences" after Mr. Kerry defeated Mr. Weld in a grueling Senate race.
Mr. Kerry likes to shop at bicycle stores, and his favorite is Wheelworks in Belmont, a suburb that is home to Mitt Romney, Massachusetts' Republican governor and a harsh Kerry critic.
His favorite restaurant is the Union Oyster House, at 41 Union Street near Faneuil Hall, which calls itself the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the country. The oyster house is a longtime Kennedy haunt and, according to Mr. Kerry's spokesman, Michael Meehan, John F. Kennedy ate there on election eve in 1960, and Mr. Kerry has adopted a tradition of lunching there on Election Day. "He sits right there at the oyster bar," Mr. Meehan said.
And there is the Kilvert and Forbes cookie shop, which Mr. Kerry, who says he had "a hankering for a great cookie" one night, opened with a friend, K. Dun Gifford, in 1976 (they named it for their mother's maiden names). Mr. Kerry is no longer an owner of the shop, which is still in Quincy Market behind Faneuil Hall, and, even to him, it seems like a quirky biographical detour.
"I will never be able to explain fully how I ended up in the cookie business," Mr. Kerry said. "I was a lawyer with time on my hands -- and a serious sweet tooth."
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