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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Feb-01-06 11:54 PM
Original message
Need info from Nebraskans (Omaha) - relocation
My husband and I are looking to move to the Omaha area soon for various reasons (job change, cost of housing, family scattered about neighboring states, public transport, etc). I would love it if anyone can offer their personal knowledge of the area. We hope a subscription to the World Herald will help a bit, but there's nothing like personal impressions. The kinds of feedback I'm looking for are (and this is not a final list):

1. Public transportation. Our son has low vision but is legally blind (therefore won't be able to drive), so in a few years we want him to have as much independent mobility as possible (basically, we don't have that here and can't afford to move anywhere within an 80 mile radius of work to get it) . I've been to the MAT site and the bus schedules are a pain to read. The network coverage looks good for for someone just going by a map for the most part, but after looking closer at a few routes it seems as if the routes on the fringes are commuter only (AM toward downtown, PM back), while a midtown route looked to run hourly all day. So, the questions in this area would be what differentiates the schedule? City vs. county, or more of a density/closer in thing? Is the bus system reliable, clean, and have good coverage from your standpoint? Is it used by people and appreciated, or does it seem like they'd just like to do away with it if they could?

2. Travel time. We've been to Omaha a few times. Enough to get a glimpse but not enough to know it. My impressions were that it was pretty easy to get around the area. No huge backups like here on the east coast. My blood pressure dropped immediately. If one were to work at Offutt, how long does it take to get there from other areas, such as Papillion, midtown, the areas to the west around Boys Town, etc. Heck, anywhere.

3. The character of different areas. I sure can't get this from a web search, so help me out. Midtown is quite a draw. Lots of beautiful older homes over a broad area of different sizes, sidewalks, parks, so much within walking distance. We drove and walked some parts of it a bit. It really looks like people take care of their homes. What I can't see is if the area is thriving or on decline for some reason, if people really do walk to all the close-by places, use the pools and parks, don't have to deal with heavy traffic (with all the connecting streets), and lots of other things I can't even think of now. You get the idea. Same goes for other areas. I liked the area of Bellevue we drove by (could be those winding roads and trees feeling more familiar to me) but the bus could be a problem. Still, it would be good to get feedback on neighborhoods. Strong, friendly, services nearby that don't make everyone feel like strangers because they always have to get in the car and leave all day, areas that are growing too fast for services and shopping to keep up, etc.

4. Schools. That's the hardest part. All schools want to sound good. No agent is going to make me feel I'm really hearing the full story. I am interested not only in the overall quality and opportunites of a school or school system, but the ability to accomodate our son, only this time I'm more concerned about gifted education. (He's in middle school right now). We also have a daughter in elementary school.

5. Airport, rail. Amtrak looks to go through, and I ahve to say that the airport was a flipping breeze and delight. But if you live there, does it serve the area well, and are tickets reasonable?

6. The wingnut factor. I just want to know what I'm getting into. :) Virginia is not a hotbed of liberalism. We bring you the wonders of Falwell and Robertson, and most of the top extremist pro-life groups out there. Our state mandates the display of "One nation under God" in every school. My vote never makes a dent in elections local, state, or national. I won't miss it. But what can I expect from Nebraska? Are our loudmouthed evangelicals your Kansas? Or is Kansas nothing compared to... ?

7. Seniors. This is a minor one, as we are only trying to cajole my in-laws to follow us in their retirement (or heck, anywhere but where they are), because if we leave they will have no protection from the two leeches they call 40-something kids, who live, I kid you not a) in their spare bedroom, and b) in a spare bedroom across the street. If anyone has any ideas of what good areas for seniors are (affodable decent housing, easy access to services, health care), let me know.

8. It was a nice place to visit, but... You know the rest. A short visit, even if you are driving around neighborhoods, does not mean it's what you want it to be. I've always felt Omaha was a perfect sized city. It <i>looks</i> like there is pride there. It looks clean, easy to get around, and that parks are valued. I grew up in Colorado, and our annual visits to family in Nebraska and South Dakota probably make it more rose-colored. Since middle school I've been on the east coast. Whenever I go back, anywhere in that part of the country, I am struck at the difference. We don't have parks everywhere, and certainly not where anyone could walk to the few we have. Our roads don't interconnect well, making an accident on one road a major backup for all roads in the entire area.

Sorry for the long post, or if it's OT. It just struck me that my best resource for information would be right here. Thanks.
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TheFarseer Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 01:54 PM
Response to Original message
1. I've lived in Omaha for a year
and Nebraska for much longer than that. Most of the wingnuts are in western Nebraska although there are some around here especially in the suburbs. I'd guess it will be comparable to Virginia. I agree, Epply airport is very good. I've never used public transportation, but I can't imagine it would be good. Character of areas - North of downtown and north omaha until you get west of 40th-50th street is not good. South of downtown until you get to about 40th is not good. Traffic can be bad at rush hour but I lived in Houston for a year and it's NOTHING compared to that. Try to find an apartment and job so that you are going out from downtown in the morning and toward downtown at night and it won't be a problem at all. I'm not that familiar with drive times in our southern suburbs like Papillion and Bellevue. I'm not very familiar with the school systems, but if you're going to live by Offut, Papillion-LaVista and the Bellevues are perfectly fine. There are alot of good restaurants in town. I've been impressed with the Chinese and Italian food. omaha.com might help. Hope that wasn't totally worthless! Good luck with moving
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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 05:28 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. TheFarseer,
Not totally worthless at all! I figure it wouldn't be much different from Virginia politics-wise (hopeless with pockets of sanity), I just wanted to make sure there weren't any surprises. Every bit of feedback helps.

Restaurant-wise I just like lots of variety. In that area, I'm glad I won't have to drive an hour to find a German restaurant!

Thanks, Farseer
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newyawker99 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-01-06 02:20 PM
Response to Reply #2
8. oops
Edited on Wed Mar-01-06 02:21 PM by newyawker99
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acmavm Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 06:51 PM
Response to Original message
3. Public transportation here is amongst the worst in the nation. At least
that's what I've heard from people who come here from other places. And as for my point of view, I have to be on a bus at 5:43 a.m. to get halfway across town by 7:30, Now admittedly I get to work at 6:30 to 6:40, but if I took the next bus after the 5:43, it wouldn't come until 6:43 and then I'd be late. I have to take three buses to get to work.

I was working even closer to home, only had to take two buses. It took over an hour to get to 50th & Dodge which can be done in 10 minutes if you drive it yourself.

Midtown is great for houses. They are not new but they are well built and have character. They're great houses, many of them huge. And you will die when you see what you can buy here compared to a lot of places.

Wing-nuts? These people think Ben Nelson is a democrat. What else is there to say?
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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 10:36 PM
Response to Reply #3
6. Thank you, acmavn
I've never lived where there was public transportation nearby. In sense, anything is better than what we have now, but on the other hand, it means I don't have enough experience to gauge how good the transportation is. Thank you for giving me an idea what your ride is like. This helps verify for me that we'd be best to look closer in before anything else. Seems there would be more accessibility to things by foot, and at the same time, if a bus is needed, there's more choice and routes also.

Yes, I die over the prices. :) So much so that I want to take advantage of it not by getting some huge mega-house and still live almost paycheck to paycheck. We hope to put down a large down payment, get a 10-15 year mortgage, have payments less than what our payments are now, and have a home with more quality and character and close-by amenities than we have now. It blows me away that we could actually do that. I have to rein in my husband sometimes, "no, we are not going to get a 4000 sq ft tudor like that one and max out our payments on a 30-year. This is a quality of LIFE change, not square footage."

Yeah, well, we have TIm Kaine. And the second-highest capital punishment rate (behind Texas), and the worst anti-gay legislation. So there. I've been in Virginia a long time. In that area, an improvement would be nice, but we can't afford those places. I just don't want it to be worse than where we are. If it's similar, then at least I know how to deal with that.

Thank you so much for taking the time to provide a glimse.
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Stephist Donating Member (557 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Mar-21-06 08:45 PM
Response to Reply #3
11. Public Transportation Is...
Awful. The Bus system is a total joke.

"Midtown is great for houses. They are not new but they are well built and have character. They're great houses, many of them huge. And you will die when you see what you can buy here compared to a lot of places."

^^^Agree totally.
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StoryTeller Donating Member (768 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 07:58 PM
Response to Original message
4. Lived here all my life! :)
I'll try to answer by the numbers. Warning, it's going to get LONG! :)

1) Public transportation: pretty much sucks. The schedules are every bit as hard to read as you thought online. It takes forever to get anywhere, and the fringes of town (read: suburbs) aren't covered well. All we have is a bus system, thought MAT does have special vans for those who are physically disabled. I don't know if your son would qualify or not. The buses are not something I would feel personally safe using. I have known other people that have used them, but really, Omaha is basically addicted to their cars.

2) Travel time: really not bad. Traffic has picked up in recent years, but the interstate system is pretty good and compared to the coasts, people are rather respectful drivers. You can still cross the city from southern Bellevue to NW Omaha in about 45 min. unless it's during rush hour. It takes me an average of 15-20 min. to get to most of the places around town that I want to go.

3) Character of different areas: I grew up in North Omaha, and I now live in the south-eastern part of mid-town, so please allow me to take respectful exception to my fellow Omahan's claim that these parts of town should be avoided. :) I love the eastern part of Omaha. There's diversity and character that you just don't find further west. It's beginning to develop the rhythm and energy of a truly big city, and that's exciting.

The majority of neighborhoods in Omaha are actually fairly safe. Your biggest issues are usually drug related, whether it's graffiti, theft, prostitution, etc. But it seems that the problems usually stay confined to those participating in the drug culture. For example, our garage (which is at the back of our property and faces an alley) gets tagged on occasion. And we have a security system to prevent break-ins--after one happened a couple of years ago. But we have never felt that our safety is personally threatened, and once we got the security system, our house has been left alone. I am at home with my two young kids during the day, and I have never felt unsafe. Our biggest problems are noisy neighbors in the apartment next door--but that's pretty easy to deal with. The ironic thing is that even though our part of town has the "bad reputation" and the stereotypes, there have been almost as many drug-related problems in west Omaha. They just cover up and hide it easier.

I actually LOVE our neighborhood. The houses were mostly built between 1884 and 1920, and they are full of character. Some are better restored than others. Most of the homes on our block are now owner-occupied, and that trend is true for several of the surrounding blocks. We have an elderly woman living 3 houses down, and a single gal living next door, and really nice college guys across the street (who don't throw parties). We have a grocery store within walking distance, several churches, two schools, and various businesses. We are minutes from the freeway, and it takes us 5 minutes to drive to the Old Market downtown. The neighborhoods in our area are very friendly, especially if you are a homeowner because you will be more likely to stay long enough to get acquainted. We have had dinner with several neighbors and there are a lot of people who take walks and stop to chat.

Thanks to the Destination Midtown project, we are getting more attention and interest in redeveloping the area, and so far people seem to be intent on preserving the historical character of the area. And in North Omaha, there has been a resurgence of little shops and cafes. People are actually proud to live there. We have neighborhood associations, a civilian drive patrol, and various ways in which neighbors can partner with the police and City Council to express their concerns.

You have to understand, there's a huge socio-economic rift in Omaha. My husband works with people who consider everything east of 72nd St. to be utter ghetto. We've got "white flight" to the west and lots of sprawling development. Everyone tends to want a new house--it's a status symbol. There's not a lot of interest in historical preservation or smart growth--despite the City Plan's claims otherwise. And so you'll find a lot of misinformation and stereotypes of what neighborhoods are "good" and which are "bad." Some of this is beginning to change, but it took a long time to get this way, and it won't improve overnight.

4) Schools-- I'm a former teacher, so I feel like I can speak with some authority on this. The Omaha Public Schools high schools are, in my opinion, much better than the elementary schools. They have a lot of technology labs and strong music and arts programs. Millard and Bellevue also have great highschools. The elementary schools depend on which one you are talking about. The Millard elementary schools are terrific--there are two that are Montessori schools.

OPS suffers a lot from the socio-economic issues I mentioned in #4. Millard, Papillion, Bellevue, etc. all have a solidly higher tax base than OPS, and none of them have schools that really deal with inner-city issues. So I tend to cut OPS some slack because some of their problems are issues every urban school district faces, and I think OPS does better than many.

As far as special resources, OPS has a really strong special ed department. I don't know as much about the other districts for that. However, their Gifted program is not much more than fun enrichment classes. That is why we homeschool our kids. I honestly don't have enough info about the other districts to comment, though I imagine Millard probably has a better gifted program. If your son is gifted as well as physically disabled, then at least in OPS, chances are you will end up getting service for the disability first and then possibly some enrichment activities for the gifted. You also could try looking into living in Council Bluffs, just across the river in Iowa. It's close enough to commute, and I have heard that Iowa's TAG program (Talented and Gifted) is really good.

5) Airport, Rail, etc.: Eppley is really nice, especially if you don't live way out west. Prices are a little bit more than KC or other main hubs because you almost always have to fly to a main hub and transfer. I've only once got a direct flight, and that was for Denver. I don't know about Amtrack.

6)Wingnuts: Yep, we got 'em. :) But I think in general, they tend to be nicer than the ones you bring us from Virginia. Being nice and not rocking the boat is pretty important here to most people. There are more liberals in Omaha and Lincoln than in the rest of the state, but I think overall, it's still really conservative. Don't expect a lot of people here to care about the environment or healthy living (we're in the top 25 most obese cities in the nation). And thanks to the racial and social issues that tend to flow under the surface, there's not as much concern about poverty and ethnic concerns as there probably ought to be. Business is VERY big here. There are a LOT of workaholics and a lot of very pro-business sentiment, which I think is where a lot of the conservative leanings stem from. Not the most academically-inclined crowd either, unless you are connected in with one of the universities. Most people basically want to have their big house in West O., keep their kids in trendy school districts, and shop at the malls and drive SUVs, and they don't give a lot of thought to anything beyond that. I suppose that's typical of a lot of America, but sometimes I think we have more than our fair share of apathy. :)

7) Seniors--I know we have some very nice retirement villages and centers. But it's not exactly a retirement Mecca or anything because it gets cold in the winter. And the public transportation is an issue. But I think there would be several possibilities for your parents if they chose to move.

8) Nice place to visit? I guess. We have a GREAT zoo! And a terrific symphony and opera and theaters. And some decent shopping. And, last I heard, more restaurants per capita than any other city in America. (thus the obesity problem!) As a 31 year old novelist who is a progressive, I often feel stifled by the conservative, business-is-god mindset. We do have a pretty thriving artist community, but it's very fringe. The parks are beautiful, but people have resisted connecting them with bike trails (though we do have a few). Downtown is great, but there are folks in the suburbs who have lived there for 20+ years without ever traveling downtown. I've been told by some of my African American friends who have lived in the South that they feel more racial tension here than in the southern states. But it's all under the surface. Everyone usually keeps their feel-good masks on pretty tight.

So I guess, overall, it's not the worst place to live. And the state of Nebraska itself is beautiful (especially if you get off the interstate and go exploring.) The people are friendly and well-intentioned. It's a "wholesome place to raise a family." And that's true--unless you count some of these other issues I mentioned.

If you want to PM me with questions about specific houses or neighborhoods or schools, I can try to give you the details as much as I know them. A lot of areas, particularly on the eastern side of the city, you just have to evaluate them block by block.

Hope that helps. :)
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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-02-06 10:17 PM
Response to Reply #4
5. Wow
Storyteller, it certainly does help. I appreciate all the time you took to answer my questions in detail. I will take you up on that offer to PM you. Thank you so much!
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Nebraska_Liberal Donating Member (145 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-08-06 03:03 PM
Response to Reply #4
10. Sounds like you live in my neighborhood.
I may even be the college guys you are talking about. Where do you live?

Please don't believe the stereotype that everything east of 40th street is bad... Personally I would never live west of 72nd.

It sounds like you should look into some of the new condo complexes going in downtown. I would love to get into one of those, but I just bought my house and have a big dog.

As far as schools go OPS is good. If you live in the downtown condos, your son could walk to Central, which is a good school. I went to North which is still a good school despite losing its magnet title.

Omaha is a great place to live. Look into the Fieldclub, and Dundee areas. I grew up in Dundee and now live just north of Fieldclub in the Leavenworth park neighborhood. I love both neighborhoods. Great local businesses, close to downtown, and the interstate. They are also more diverse and definitely more liberal than anywhere else in the state.

Hope you make it to O-town.
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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Apr-14-06 08:12 PM
Response to Reply #10
16. Here we come
Thank you, Nebraska Liberal. We'll be there next week. Seriously. I'm definitely looking for the "local businesses" thing, and of course, more liberal areas (why do you think I asked this on a dmeocrat site?) ;)
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Stephist Donating Member (557 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Mar-21-06 08:48 PM
Response to Reply #4
12. A question for Story Teller
may I ask what part of north Omaha you are from? I lived until I was 9 on 28th and Mary street.
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newyawker99 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Feb-16-06 04:07 PM
Response to Original message
7. Hi manxome!!
Welcome to DU!! :toast:
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Dave Sund Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-03-06 10:20 AM
Response to Original message
9. I don't have much, in depth, to say...
But I love Omaha. For all it's flaws, it's still got a lot of charm. It's just big enough so that there are things to do, but not so big that it's a hassle. I like to think that Omaha's much more liberal than people give us credit for. Compared to the rest of the state, at least. Stay away from talk radio and you should be fine.

I'd say the major problem with Omaha is that you pretty much have to own a car to get around -- and West Omaha is just awful for traffic /construction.

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Omaha Steve Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Mar-26-06 11:41 PM
Response to Original message
13. some good quick info here
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pdurod1 Donating Member (328 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Apr-04-06 11:02 PM
Response to Original message
14. Country Club - Benson - Dundee
I grew up in Bellevue, lived on W. Omaha, S. Omaha and like this area best. Affordable, decent schools, and some are private. Dundee has a charming personality. During my home search, everytime I passed through these neighborhoods it put me in a good mood. Don't want to move.
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Snow Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Apr-14-06 10:33 AM
Response to Original message
15. I'll kick in with some thoughts...
Edited on Fri Apr-14-06 10:49 AM by Snow
I'm now in Altadena, California, but lived in Omaha from 1991 to 20002. We lived in Dundee, on 52nd just south of Blondo. Something that previous posters have been dodging around is that Omaha is a racist, segregated city. You will hear the phrase "good neighborhood to raise a family". That's code for "there's only people like us living there". The bad neighborhoods of northeast Omaha are not bad, just black. Okay, they're poor, too, but that's what happens in segregated societies. South O is latino and poor, and not scary - just not white. If you want to see how really racist they are, look at what the state legislature just did with the Omaha school district - they split it into black, latino, and white districts so that "each neighborhood can have local control". And that idiot Ernie Chambers actually supported this! I was proud to see two old friends of mine, Senator Pat Bourne and Omaha School Superintendent John Mackiel, expressing horror and incredulity. I lived there because there are good qualities to the place, and it worked for my career, but my wife is Korean, and even half-Asian kids catch racist shit in public places in Omaha. As you might expect, the bigotry against gays and lesbians is strong too - one of the last things I did before leaving was helpt try to stop the Defense of Marriage Act from being enacted. I was amazed that there were gays and lesbians living in Omaha, but they were most often locals with family there.

So how do you avoid all that? As some have already suggested, stay east of 72nd street. Send your high-school age kid to Central or South High. Stay far away from District 66. Join groups like Nebraskans for Peace or Nebraskans Against the Death Penalty (lots of overlap). Nebraskans don't leave - even if they go away for a while, to school or something, thay come back. Therefore the culture is very isolated, and they don't realize it. I lived in Indianapolis during the 60s, and that's Omaha in the 90s. At the place I worked, UN Med Center, something like 80% of the faculty are UNMC graduates. So there is a sense of natives and outsiders that is quite strong.

Well, so what have I got to say good about the place? It's easy to get to know everybody, including people in positions of power. I was on first-name basis with my state senator, my school superintendent, the county health department director, the state health department director, the mayors of Omaha and Lincoln, and was casual friends with my US congressman, senator and two former governors. That is not unusual - everybody knows everybody in Omaha. So if you'd like to hear what can happen for your youngster who needs gifted education, go talk to John Mackiel - he's accessible, honest, and really knows what Omaha Public Schools' strengths and weaknesses are, and will tell you.

Culturally, the place at first glance doesn't have much - but at second glance, there's quite a lot. There're several very good museums. The Joslyn has the world's largest collection of Remington. The Museum of Western Heritage in the old Union Station is an outstanding local history museum. And don't miss the Black History Museum, located in a converted residence on that scary northside, and started by a sweet old lady who may not still be alive. There's a symphony which is very high caliber - on their good days they can sound better than the ST. Louis Orchestra. There's an opera which matured a lot while I was there - the director comes from out of town, and his wife is a well-known opera singer who teaches opera workshop classes at Omaha South High when she's in town. The ballet is struggling, but they try hard and are nice people. My kids took lessons on oboe and violin, and got very well-acquainted with the symphony musicians, as did my wife and I. I sang in the Symphonic Chorus and enjoyed it vastly - singing under Maestro Yampolski's stick is quite exciting. University of Nebraska Omaha is spotty but has some very good sections. The restaurant scene is interesting - they seem to have one each of a wide variety of ethinc restaurants which are all very good - try Ahmed's Persian Cuisine or the Afghani Kebab or El Alamo or the Bohemian place. When I left there were three Indian places, all good. The Old Market downtown is a fun place.

And it was a good place to live in quiet neighborhoods where if you looked carefully, your kids could get a good education and you could make a number of interesting friends, and it is a place where you have a sense of being able to have a say in the community. Pat Bourne, my state senator, always listened to what I had to say, even solicited my opinion, and was usually honest about whether that could happen or not. Finally the contrasts between neighborhoods and people is sometimes stark - while I lived there, Omaha came within a whisker of electing a liberal democrat black woman as mayor. Who would've thought it, but there it was. It can be a frustrating place in a lot of respects, but there's a lot of good in it as well. And oh yes, the local bus system is really bad.
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manxome Donating Member (17 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Apr-14-06 08:26 PM
Response to Reply #15
17. Snow
Heh, okay, I get the sentiment about the bus system! ;)

Thanks for the extra information. You do a good job of expanding on the sense of community in the area. We'll actually be out there next week, and I'm making a beeline for the Bohemian Cafe. Wonder if they're open Easter Sunday? Arrive at airport, get rental car, drive to the restaurant; should be able to dig in within an hour of landing, huh?
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Snow Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Apr-15-06 11:57 AM
Response to Reply #17
18. I'd be amazed if the Bohemian wasn't open,
and it's like a 10 minute drive from Eppley. Score some dumplings! Mind you, my info is 4 years old, but among the great places to eat like Ahmed's in the Old Market, there's a pastry/sandwich shop called Delice, and it's a hang-out for the symphony musicians - Maestro Yampolski can frequently be spotted there.
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