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Andrew Busch: Maybe just talk a little bit about what you think barbecue is all about.
Ben Wash: Thank you. My name is Ben Wash. I’m the president of Ben’s Long Branch barbecue—has been for thirty-six years. In 1971, yes, 1971 when I started it all, and I’m still—still going, you know. And well, you know, the thing that—what I was trying to tell these guys, they’re a little younger than I am, just a little bit you know, not much—nice guys, though, you know, man. I’m trying to, I’m trying to explain to them—I’m trying to explain to them that what barbecue—what it’s really like and where it all started—it all started right here in Texas. It’s called—Texans used to call it—what’s it called?—the trail they used to punch cows across the state—and all the way from Texas to Kansas—mostly, if you was any where else in Texas other than Fort Worth— we used to also punch some from—from the East Texas area, and the west part of Texas, also the south part of Texas, they used to push ‘em to Fort Worth, Texas. It was kind of like the headquarters of the Texas cattle—Texas cattle, cattle run—that was back in, oh, 17, 1800s from history—I read a little bit about it. But, but the thing about it, now, here’s the story that I read, and some of the old guys from Texas says I’m right. They said that one of the slaves started the barbecue—and started the brisket—where that you find brisket, I, it’s been, it’s been known here to go back into the 1800s. And they said the slaves, when the slaves came here—when the guys used to—the masters used to take their—their cow and kill her—and they used to throw the brisket away—and so, the slaves got the brisket, and they dug a hole in the ground. And they made some fire and some coal——they used to use hickory wood, I believe they said they mostly used hickory wood, you know—to smoke with, you know—and they used to build a hole in the ground, and they put some wire—some like some chicken wire, you know, chicken wire, and lay it up on there you know, and then they, get it real hot and they set the brisket up there and let it cook overnight. So, they, stay up late that night and change it over maybe twelve or one o’clock that night, they change it over push over to the other side, and let it cook on that side, you know. Now, just go back to the, to the cattle race , punching cows now, now they said when they used to get hungry and wanted some beef, and so, this is the way the barbecue started—they got the name for barbecue. So these, normally, you know, well originally, the slave was from Africa. They always dug holes in the ground and cooked their food. If you could go back to some of the history, some of the movies they made they was cooking it then, and they used to live in these little tents, and they used cook in these—dig a hole in the ground. So, these slaves was trying to tell them say look, we don’t need a stove or all this stuff that you have in your kitchen at home to cook food. You see, what I—what I’ll do—you kill me a cow, and dress him out for me, and I’ll dig a hole and I’ll make a hole in the ground and put some fire in it, and I’ll do some barbecue. I’ll smoke it for you, you know.
So the slaves used sort of the throw away parts of the animal—?
Yeah, oh yeah, oh yeah. The brisket was the one—well, what was the problem with the brisket—even if you baked a brisket like you do a roast, you have to bake it 3 or 4 times longer, and I guess the master and them, they didn’t like the idea that you have to cook it something that long to make it tender, you know. And so, but the black people they just put it out there and they just let it cook all day all night if they needed to. So, when they got done—so, somehow or another the master went outside and tasted that, tasted that brisket and he fell in love with it.
I fell in love with it also the first time I had it.
Oh, you did—he fell in love with the brisket and he like, “Well hey man——so he started telling all the other guys about it, you know. So, they all started coming around and tasting the brisket, and they all started liking it. Next thing they know, they was building barbecue places with brisket, you know. Yeah, they was, they was building barbecue places and that was—that was their barbecue. And, even today, the number one seller in Texas is brisket—right now. I mean, I can buy five hundred pounds of brisket, five hundred pounds of sausage, and hell, I mean, I can sell three or four—I’d have, I could have two hundred pounds of sausage still left and all the brisket’s gone. That’s, I mean, when, and I’m selling to just a variety of people, you know, yeah—so, the brisket is still the number one thing in Austin, Texas. But now, this story I’m telling is something I read about and I did talk to some of the older guys, and they said it’s the truth, though. And even some of them have told me this, so I’m going by something I read, ‘cause I’m not old enough to know what happened in those days—.
That was a great story too.
This is—this is the way they said—this is what the brisket started. And then, the barbecue, and then after that, you know, in 19—1885, when the black people in Texas was free, um, they—they, they kept cooking the barbecue like that. They continue to cook it outside like that, you know, and had the Juneteenth—remember the Juneteenth? I know y’all know about the Juneteenth—go ahead.
I’d like to hear about how you started this business coming from Mississippi, and how you got into the barbecue business yourself.
Well, the first thing I walked in the place and I saw that big ol’ brisket and I though it was burnt—you know how—how they cook brisket and I though it was burnt, right. So, I looked around the grill and I said—I saw—so, when he sliced it, it had a little burn on the tip—just a fraction of an inch or whatever, you know—and then up under there it was so pretty—I said, “Give me some of that roast beef.” I didn’t know what barbecue were, man, I didn’t know what it was.
Now, where are you from exactly?
Meridian, Mississippi. Hell, I’d never heard of barbecue until I got here.
I’m serious, really—yeah—and so the guy say—he starts laughing—so he went on and says “I’m going to give you a barbecue brisket sandwich”—so, he sold me a barbecue brisket sandwich. I said “damn, that taste pretty good,” you know——I said “what is it”—he said “brisket”—well, I didn’t know much about brisket, because we didn’t do brisket too much in the east, and even in Mississippi—that brisket was hard to cook, man, because we didn’t even know how to barbecue it, then if we did cook it, we’d have to put it in the oven and let it bake, you know. Hell, you gotta bake it five or six hours before they get done, you know, so we didn’t eat that much brisket down there. But I ate that man, and it was so good man—so, the way I found out. Then I said, well “I’ll help some of these old guys,” you know.
article: http://www.southernbbqtrail.com/bens_longbranch.shtml
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