Take exit 64 off the interstate highway between Des Moines, Iowa, and Omaha, Nebraska, and the asphalt quickly gives way to a dirt track through rolling cornfields that stretch as far as the eye can see.
Five miles north, the track reaches Exira, a town of 800 people, where most vehicles are mud-splattered 4x4s and the only visible industry is farming. It may seem like an unlikely place to hold a presidential campaign rally but in Iowa, no town is too small to merit the attention of White House hopefuls.
"You are the guardians of what kind of president we will have," says John Edwards, the Democratic contender, addressing 200 people in the Exira High School gymnasium. "The rest of the country will see 30-second sound bites. You have the opportunity to see us stand in front of you and answer hard questions."
Every four years, the road to the White House runs through Exira and towns like it across Iowa, because of the state's crucial role in the presidential nomination process. Iowa traditionally holds the first of the state contests that determine each party's presidential nominee, setting the tone for those that follow days later in New Hampshire, South Carolina and elsewhere.
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