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store it upside down. Really.
Gorilla Glue cures in the presence of moisture. By storing it with the nozzle pointing down, and never, ever pointing it any other direction (you have to give it a pretty good squeeze to get it to come out with the nozzle open, so you won't come downstairs tomorrow to find a big puddle of expensive glue on your workbench) the air above the glue will remain moisture-free and you'll be able to use all of the glue.
This goes for any polyurethane glue, and there are several. But Gorilla Glue is the best, it's what I buy (except for turnings, where I use Titebond 2 in gallon jugs), and you'll like it.
A couple other recommendations: do *not* use redwood. The redwood stands are in such bad shape they need to put this tree on the CITES endangered species list. There are several trees there already; Lignum Vitae is the most prominent one. (Lignum Vitae is treasured for its hardness and oiliness; it is about as hard as mild steel. It is so dense it will not float. It is so hard you can't cut it with a wood saw. The Navy has a permit to import about one tree's worth every year; they turn screw-shaft bearings for submarines out of it, which last longer than any metal bearing. They turn it on machinists' lathes.) Oak is a good choice; it is in very plentiful supply. I would make your chairs from white oak, which has a closed-cell grain. Red oak has grain cells that are so open you can blow air through them. Other good woods for outdoor use are any of the mahoganies, Spanish cedar, ipe, purpleheart and redheart. Unless you've been working wood a while, don't get purpleheart; it's not much softer than lignum vitae. Ipe is slightly softer than purpleheart. Spanish cedar and mahogany are really easy to work; if you can get Golden Virola, a South American mahogany, that's going to be your best choice both from a workability perspective and from a sustainability one. Farmed teak would also be good except that it's extremely difficult to get glue to stick to it because it's so oily.
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