Walter Munk, the ‘Einstein of the Oceans’
LA JOLLA, Calif. In 1942, with World War II in full swing, a young military scientist learned of the Allies plans to invade northwestern Africa by sea to dislodge the nearby Axis forces.
The scientist, Walter Munk, who was in his mid-20s, hastily did some research and found that waves in the region were often too high for the boats carrying troops to reach the beaches safely. Disaster could loom. He mentioned it to his commanding officer, but was brushed off.
They must have thought about that, Dr. Munk, now 97, recalled being told. But the young scientist persisted, calling in his mentor at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography near San Diego to help.
They devised a way to calculate the waves the boats could expect to face. Their work helped the boats land in a window of relative calm, and the science of wave prediction took off, becoming part of the planning for the D-Day landings in 1944.
Such feats explain why Dr. Munk is sometimes called the Einstein of the oceans. Longtime colleagues describe him as a courtly man of boundless curiosity, with an uncanny ability to search out important problems at just the right time. In addition to wartime wave forecasting, Dr. Munk has done pioneering research in ocean sound transmission, deep-sea tides and even climate change, though some of his work in the field has been controversial.
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http://www.nytimes.com/2015/08/25/science/walter-munk-einstein-of-the-oceans-at-97.html