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Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:05 PM

 

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This message was self-deleted by its author (Flying Squirrel) on Mon Nov 7, 2016, 09:50 PM. When the original post in a discussion thread is self-deleted, the entire discussion thread is automatically locked so new replies cannot be posted.

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Reply This message was self-deleted by its author (Original post)
Flying Squirrel Aug 2013 OP
RobertEarl Aug 2013 #1
NV Whino Aug 2013 #2
Squinch Aug 2013 #3
dixiegrrrrl Aug 2013 #16
Squinch Aug 2013 #22
JimDandy Aug 2013 #27
cyberswede Aug 2013 #4
awoke_in_2003 Aug 2013 #11
petronius Aug 2013 #5
pinboy3niner Aug 2013 #6
dem in texas Aug 2013 #7
A HERETIC I AM Aug 2013 #8
warrior1 Aug 2013 #9
Gidney N Cloyd Aug 2013 #10
840high Aug 2013 #12
gristy Aug 2013 #13
Callmecrazy Aug 2013 #23
gristy Aug 2013 #36
KG Aug 2013 #14
surrealAmerican Aug 2013 #15
Flying Squirrel Aug 2013 #18
dionysus Aug 2013 #17
Flying Squirrel Aug 2013 #19
easychoice Aug 2013 #20
TheMadMonk Aug 2013 #21
dixiegrrrrl Aug 2013 #24
Safetykitten Aug 2013 #25
Buns_of_Fire Aug 2013 #26
JimDandy Aug 2013 #28
hunter Aug 2013 #29
MineralMan Aug 2013 #30
Flying Squirrel Aug 2013 #31
MineralMan Aug 2013 #32
Flying Squirrel Aug 2013 #33
MineralMan Aug 2013 #34
ladyVet Sep 2013 #37
MineralMan Sep 2013 #38
JimDandy Aug 2013 #35
satyryk Dec 2013 #39
Flying Squirrel Dec 2013 #40
satyryk Dec 2013 #41
Flying Squirrel Dec 2013 #42

Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:08 PM

1. Screw that!

 

Some stuff is really screwed up, idn't?

Good advice for some good long lasting screwing, there, Squirrel.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:19 PM

2. Glue.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:20 PM

3. My home is built upon the great American institutions of Liquid Nails and joint compound.

We don't need no stinkin' screws...

...except...you know...

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Response to Squinch (Reply #3)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 10:44 PM

16. Down here we have what we call "faith based Carpentry"

We have actually found pieces of wood on the house that have nails thru them sticking into ...air.

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Response to dixiegrrrrl (Reply #16)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 06:29 AM

22. Because you don't want the air to separate from the house. That would be scary.

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Response to dixiegrrrrl (Reply #16)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 09:54 AM

27. And Jesus, the Carpenter, shall lead them!

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:22 PM

4. Nailed it!

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Response to cyberswede (Reply #4)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 08:37 PM

11. Screwed it. nt

 

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:22 PM

5. So what am I supposed to do with all this duct tape, then?

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:23 PM

6. What, you never heard of duct tape?

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 07:29 PM

7. I always use my hot glue gun

Lordy me! You mean I can't use my hot glue gun????

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 08:04 PM

8. :::Sneaks on to Flying Squirrel's property..:::::

:::Replaces every single wood screw joint there is with smaller than needed screws and over sized holes::::




BWAAA.....HAHA HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

I am an incredibly evil person.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 08:06 PM

9. Duct tape

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 08:31 PM

10. If women don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 09:07 PM

12. Super glue.

 

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 09:11 PM

13. A self-tapping screw with a smooth shank up by the head gives a similar result

No drilling at all!

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Response to gristy (Reply #13)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 06:43 AM

23. Nah, self-tapping screws wont hold in wood...

They're more for metal.

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Response to Callmecrazy (Reply #23)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 09:49 PM

36. Used on wood all the time

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 09:13 PM

14. drywall screws and caulk. if I can't fix it with those, it can't be fixed

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 09:36 PM

15. You mean you're not going to counter-sink that head?

We need a third bit for that, but it's worth it.

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Response to surrealAmerican (Reply #15)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 11:37 PM

18. Depends

 

On the project and the wood... an project that doesn't have to look perfect, with soft wood, the head will probably counter-sink itself (as I'm sure you knew already)

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 10:55 PM

17. does that apply with shit like 2x4& 8s? when i built my shed i didnt use pilot holes for the screws

on the foundation and wall studs.

I always use pilot holes for interior molding at the edges so it doesn't split.

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Response to dionysus (Reply #17)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 11:38 PM

19. I would have, but hey that's just me :)

 

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 11:42 PM

20. Actually there is a chart for that...use the O.D. for clearence and the R.D.to thread.

Otherwise the pitch of the thread will jack the two parts away from each other.
I prefer Sikaflex and duct tape with a lot of bessie clamps for all my fastening needs.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 01:37 AM

21. Dovetail and dowel. Only way to travel.

 

When working wood, I like to teach myself how to do things using hand tools and traditional methods, but once I have, I switch to power tools for speed and accuracy.

With a little bit of reworking (a solid fence usually) even a cheap as dirt router bench can deliver very good results. With a router bench the dovetail is yours for the having.

A little bit of planning, and you can take pride in a project held together by dovetails and perhaps only a single pin.

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Response to TheMadMonk (Reply #21)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 07:37 AM

24. Mr. Dixie agrees with you.

He is an excellent woodworker, "old school".
So I hear what you are saying also.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 07:39 AM

25. What's a screw?

 

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 07:51 AM

26. Next, on our cooking segment: Boiling Water Without Burning It.

Yes, it CAN be done!

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 09:56 AM

28. K n R cause everyone can use this tip. Tnxs Flying Squirrel!

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 10:52 AM

29. I'm a modern "glue it and screw it" guy most of the time.

The screws are only there to hold the joint together while the adhesive cures. Screws can even be removed afterwards.

Titebond III, Gorilla Glue, marine epoxies... today's adhesives are amazing compared to the older glues that ruined glue's reputation.

I will go "old school" to be authentic. My grandfather collected screws in the Great Depression and my siblings and I still have thousands of them. (He was away from home and busy as an officer during World War II so his collection survived neighborhood scrap drives.)

Woodworking is not one of my obsessions so I'll probably never get into "high art" traditional joinery.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 11:10 AM

30. Here are the correct tools for drilling pilot holes for

wood screws.



Adjustable for length, they are sized to match standard screw sizes, and countersink and counterbore as well. The ones shown here don't have adjustable counterbore stops, but those are also available as a set of four.

If you use wood screws regularly, a set of these belongs in your workshop, in it's own little box, and stored with the hex wrenches.

There is no substitute for proper tools.

One hint: If you are driving screws into hardwoods, lubricate the threads with candlewax or ivory soap before driving them. That solves a world of problems.

Another hint: Any outdoor project should be assembled with brass or stainless steel wood screws. They cost more, but last.

Finally: Screws are for holding the assembly together while the glue dries. Use the appropriate glue, unless you are planning to disassemble the assembly later.

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Response to MineralMan (Reply #30)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 02:09 PM

31. I have some of those, but I don't use them that often

 

They don't drill a wider hole all the way through the first piece, so you would still have the same problem with effective clamping action. I probably don't use glue as often as I should. Good advice about the hardwoods, thanks!

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Reply #31)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 02:14 PM

32. That's true. However, if you have properly secured the

pieces together, the clamping effect is still excellent with the screws.

Personally, I rarely use screws any longer. I use mainly doweled joints, glue, and clamps during assembly. It's much better aesthetically. For rough work, I do use screws, but normally use self-drilling drywall screws in those cases. The tulip heads countersink themselves pretty well in softwoods and assembly goes faster. More expensive, but very effective.



But, for construction of most things, I use dowel and glue construction pretty much all the time. I have doweling jigs to ensure proper alignment during assembly, and dozens of clamps. I like the results better.

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Response to MineralMan (Reply #32)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 02:18 PM

33. Sounds cool..

 

I may have to branch out to dovetails and dowels at some point.

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Reply #33)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 02:44 PM

34. Dovetail joints are a PITA to make.

Doweling, splines, cookies and other similar methods are easier, although there is an investment in doweling jigs and clamps. Another interesting joint for cabinet work is the half-lap joint. Lots of surface for glue, and I often use contrasting through dowels on those joints. But those are added after clamping.

I'm a power tool guy, and just don't have the patience to do hand-cut dovetails, and don't like the look of machine dovetails. If you already have a table saw and router, make your next investment in a 6" jointer/planer. That single tool will open up an entire new set of options for your woodworking.

The other tool I highly recommend is a radial arm saw. A good one. They're not as popular as they once were, but are probably the most useful tool anyone can have in their shop. Ryobi made a wonderful one, that used a geared drive for the blade. The motor's spindle runs much faster, so you can actually use shaper bits on it (like a giant router) and do some amazing things. I could do just about everything with a good radial arm saw, if I have the necessary accessories. A wonderful tool, once you learn its capabilities. Expensive, though, and good blades and dado blades are expensive, but worth the money. Ryobi dropped making them, though, but excellent used ones can often be located through Craig's list. The older Craftsman RA saws are also very good.

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Response to MineralMan (Reply #34)

Sun Sep 1, 2013, 07:27 AM

37. OMG! Stop! You guys are making me hot!



I love tools and making things. I have a better tool box and more tools than almost every man I've ever met.

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Response to ladyVet (Reply #37)

Sun Sep 1, 2013, 08:23 AM

38. LOL!

I like that. Girls with Tools. What could be better?

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Response to MineralMan (Reply #30)

Sat Aug 31, 2013, 08:16 PM

35. More great tips! n/t

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Original post)

Mon Dec 16, 2013, 07:28 PM

39. Squeaking stairs

Should I use the same method when clamping treads to risers to eliminate squeaking stairs? Thanks

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Response to satyryk (Reply #39)

Mon Dec 16, 2013, 07:32 PM

40. Glue would probably help that... n/t

 

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Response to Flying Squirrel (Reply #40)

Tue Dec 17, 2013, 03:06 AM

41. Squeaking stairs

Thanks for that.
It's an old house and treads would slightly bend in the middle when walking on them. Trouble is I don't have access from underneath to strength the treads and I think all I can do is to screw treads to risers (there are old nails there but they don't hold treads in position) and squeeze some wood glue wherever I can see any gap. Would this be a correct method?
Instead of drilling two different diameter holes, would a screw with a shank of diameter 4mm (?) going into one diameter hole only do? The treads are 30mm thick and the risers are only 15mm thick so there’s not much space for bigger screws. Thanks in advance.

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Response to satyryk (Reply #41)

Wed Dec 18, 2013, 10:10 PM

42. Hmmm

 

Last edited Wed Dec 18, 2013, 11:28 PM - Edit history (1)

I would probably use screws 70-80mm long, and if you use 4 mm shank screws, first drill a 4mm hole 70-75mm deep, then drill a 6mm hole in the same place but only about 30-35mm deep (you can mark the depth on your drill bit with a permanent marker or fingernail polish etc. so you know when to stop).

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