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Rosie1223 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-12-10 12:47 PM
Original message
Dumb question about bathroom flooring
After years of well water I am finally getting municipal water to my house. As a result I will be replacing my rust-stained toilet and tub. At the same time I would also like to replace the vinyl floor with tile or a laminate wood as a DIY project. Do I need to have the new tub in before I put down the floor? Or should the new floor be there when the plumbers get there?

TIA
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Wash. state Desk Jet Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-12-10 04:10 PM
Response to Original message
1. As a rule
your tub sets below the sub flooring. A 2x's 4 runs across the tub wall and supports the side against the wall. That side is open as are the front and back. The walls hide that.The front is the only finish side. The tub as a rule or a code rule will set about 1/2 " below the finish floor.Could be more 3/4 inch there there abouts.

When the tub comes out,you will see what I mean. You install the tub first, than the floor, than the toilet and sink vanity.You may want to consult your plumber,but that is the way it is done.all assuming of course yer tub is not one of those four legged old fashion tubs !

And there may be some repair work to be done under yer tub as well the tub wall. Under yer toilet too.
you will want to check the condition of the underlayment before you begin your upgrading. Deterioration under the toilet and tub and the framing along the tub walls.

Now is the time to look into that. If or when you open those walls ,you will want to look at the plumbing,drains and water lines to see if any parts need changing. And yer toilet flange. Always a good time to change out your valves at the toilet and sink, yer bathtub tub too.for some reason people seem to think valves last forever, couldn't be further from the truth.

I don't know how old your house is or rather yer plumbed in copper or not. if it's galvy -you change out stub outs and at the bath valve connections where all the build up is. So you may have some unforeseen issues to deal with.
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NNN0LHI Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-12-10 06:59 PM
Response to Original message
2. WAIT!!!!!!!!!
Edited on Mon Jul-12-10 07:10 PM by NNN0LHI
Before you go to pull that tub out try this stuff first:

http://www.amazon.com/KRC-7-Bathroom-Cleaner-Restorer/d...

When I moved into this house I had the same problem. I was just about ready to take a sledgehammer to the two old nasty looking tubs that were here when I moved in and one of the contractors suggested I try that stuff before I got too carried away.

I am sure glad I did. This stuff works like magic. Made those two tubs look like brand new again after about an hours work.

Sure happy I tried it before I went on to the sledgehammer option.

Good luck.

Don

Edit: It is currently unavailable at Amazon but a lot of other sites sell it and most plumbing supply stores either carry it or can get it.
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Warpy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-13-10 07:20 AM
Response to Original message
3. You might want to reconsider the laminate
because it does get watermarks and other staining and really isn't suitable for a bathroom, IMO.

Tile is really the gold standard for bathroom floors, although if you have a small room and/or you're made of money, you can consider stone like slate. Marble looks nice when it goes in but discolors after exposure to heat and moisture, so caveat emptor there.

There is an astounding variety of tile out there to choose from. Have fun doing it.
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Rosie1223 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Jul-15-10 08:58 AM
Response to Original message
4. Thanks for the responses
Our house is only 15 years old so hopefully there won't be any unforseen subfloor, pipe, etc. issues.

I have seen laminate in kitchens so I thought it would be ok in bathroom -- sounds like I need to do some more research. They haven't even started laying pipe so I have about 6 months before I start this project. I will look around for the KRC-7. I've tried to use CLR in the past but the fumes overpower me to the point I feel like I'm hacking up a lung before I finish cleaning the tub.

Thanks Again!
Rosie
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Whoa_Nelly Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-19-10 11:37 AM
Response to Original message
5. You may want to consider linoleum (it is very different from vinyl)
You may also want to consider taking a tile setting class, usually free at Home Depot, and look into floor tiles that are slip-resistant. If your bath area is not large, then you ahve the advantage of considering higher-end flooring choices as the cost to needed amount is then really not prohibitive.

Link that explains the difference between vinyl and linoleum. This link also has links to other flooring info in the right frame:
http://floortalk.wfca.org/2008/04/02/linoleum-whats-the... /

<snip>
Differences between Vinyl and Linoleum:

Vinyl will melt if a lighted match or cigarette lands on it, linoleum cant.

Most vinyl patterns are printed into the surface, linoleums colors go all the way through.

Linoleum can be used on countertops and backsplashes where vinyl cannot.

Durability linoleum can last 30-40 years where most vinyl cannot.

Vinyl was introduced in the 1800s and vinyl flooring came around in 1947.

Linoleum requires an acrylic coating upon installation and then again annually where vinyl flooring does not.

Linoleum has more durable properties similar to those of ceramic and hardwood, but not the cost of those products. The cost is more similar to vinyl flooring which is not as durable.

The manufacturing of vinyl flooring uses highly sophisticated techniques, complex methods and precise systems, linoleum uses a more simple natural process.
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marybourg Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-19-10 01:37 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. I'm old enough to remember linoleum chipping and cracking after
a few years. Give me vinyl any day (in fact I recently put it in kitchen and bath. (Also old enough to prefer not falling on tile)
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Whoa_Nelly Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-19-10 02:57 PM
Response to Reply #6
7. Just thought I'd put linoleum out there for being enviro-friendly
Edited on Mon Jul-19-10 03:09 PM by Whoa_Nelly
One of the big drawbacks to vinyl flooring in a bath area where latex backed non-skid throw rugs are often used, is that the latex interacts with the vinyl, causing the flooring to become permanently discolored underneath the rug.

Anyway, hope you find a could choice, such as the tile. But, just for more info re: linoleum:
http://homerenovations.about.com/od/floors/ss/BestFloor...
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Stinky The Clown Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Jul-21-10 09:37 PM
Response to Reply #6
8. The "new" linoleum is a very different product than you remember
We just went back to renovate a public, high traffic area we designed 17 years ago. The floors are linoleum and they look like brand new. They have held up remarkably well. Incredible, even. Plus, the stuff is as green as green can be.
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Warpy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Jul-22-10 04:04 PM
Response to Reply #8
9. If I stay in this country after the coming year
I'll be renovating my kitchen and have already decided on linoleum as the greenest and most durable soft flooring.

While tile is nice and cool in a desert climate, I have too serious a case of the "drops" to consider it for floors and hard surfaces like stone or composite for countertops.

Besides, I have my heart set on black and white check, it looks clean even when it isn't, and know a future buyer would prefer something that could be changed easily and economically. Linoleum fits that bill, too.

FWIW, I had the old linoleum in one kitchen back in New England. From its pattern, it had to be 40 years old, minimum. It had chipped around the edges and was starting to wear through to black at the sink, but most of it was as bright as the day it was laid. These days, the color goes all the way through.
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