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My Grilfriend put Oil-Based Kilz Primer Over Latex Paint

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On the Road Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Mar-29-05 10:41 PM
Original message
My Grilfriend put Oil-Based Kilz Primer Over Latex Paint
by mistake and bought a five-gallon conatiner of latex semi-gloss to put over the Kilz. The new container is already open.

Will the latex semi-gloss peel off the Kilz? Is there an additive like linseed oil that will make the paint stick better? Or should she just bite the bullet and buy oil-based interior paint?
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eleny Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Mar-29-05 10:49 PM
Response to Original message
1. Some thoughts
Our contractor always suggested we use oil based Kilz for various coverage problems. He never told us we'd have to use oil based paint on top.

Here's a site that talks about using primers. It points out that it's important to allow several days for the primer to cure before painting. I never knew this. The site also doesn't advise that oil paint must go over oil primer. http://thatpaintguy.tv/docs/dtime50.htm
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On the Road Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Mar-29-05 10:56 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. Thanks -- That's a Relief
I did my own search and came up with the following:

By and large, solvent-thinned primer systems are used for solvent-thinned topcoats, and latex primers for latex topcoats. Although this is the general rule, there are exceptions: Oil/alkyd primers are still the most popular universal choice. They may be topcoated with either a latex or oil based finish. Latex primers also may be topcoated with either latex or oil based topcoats.

Why two primers? Both have their own distinct advantages. The oil based primers are much better in checking tannin bleeding on redwood, cedar and other high extractive type woods. Since these tannins are water soluble, latex products have a hard time stopping this bleed in severe cases. Our latex primers are specially formulated with a blend of resins to help check tannin staining.

http://www.goldenglowpaints.com/Articles/ProductArticle...


I learned something.
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Pathwalker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-30-05 12:38 PM
Response to Original message
3. I have always been told by professional painters
that the whole point of using Kilz, etc. was to avoid problems with what was on your wall before, and what you want to use. If you have a problem with this, then I am in DEEP trouble, because I did the same thing with the walls and ceilings of my hallway and my kitchen. Three months later, it still looks great. How long before the problem should start?
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Stinky The Clown Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-30-05 06:26 PM
Response to Reply #3
4. No need to worry ...... Kilz is just fine the way you used it
Kilz is virtually impervious/inert and will not be affected by whatever is the coat under it or above it.
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Pathwalker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-31-05 09:35 AM
Response to Reply #4
5. Whew! Thanks - it looks great now, but I was worried
that it might crackle. So, the pros were right.
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AlCzervik Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-31-05 01:17 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. open the windows when using kilz, it works really well
but it stinks.
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Pathwalker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Apr-01-05 12:08 PM
Response to Reply #6
7. The latex version smells like ammonia - blech!
So ventilation is very necessary!
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