Gardners... Can I root a big (two feet) branch of Plumeria? And do you

[henslee]

have any plumeria rooting tips? I just came across a bunch of stalks in a trash pile... probably due to Hurricane Wilma.

[flowomo]

1. James and Jennifer have stepped out of the room....

(typo in your OP)

[henslee]

2. fixed. smartypants.

[flowomo]

3. heehee... but you weren't getting and replies!

and that was probably why.

[henslee]

4. I know. I googled around first of course.... unlike many posters

who dont like doing the leg work.

[flowomo]

5. this was the first thing I saw:

Plumeria can be propagated by cuttings anytime of the year, but most successfully and easily when the cuttings are taken during late winter while the plant is dormant. You can store the cuttings for months before planting. In any event there must be sufficient warm weather remaining to allow the cutting to establish a healthy root system outdoors. In Texas, May through July would be the most ideal time to start plumeria from cuttings outdoors.
What to Cut

Select a tip or branch from a healthy plumeria. The cut should be made in mature wood, not green, but having a grayish sheen to it. It should be at least 25 cm long, but avoid cuttings much longer than 50 cm unless they have multiple forks or branches since the cutting will probably grow another 30 cm before blooming and branching, and would become unacceptably tall in short order. Generally, a cutting with two or more branch points will establish itself faster and take longer to attain objectional height.
How to Cut

Using a very sharp knife, clippers, or large tooth pruning saw; cut the specimen from the donor plant. The cut should be diagonal (IE made at a 45° angle on the branch being cut) and clean, without damaging the branch tissues on either the donor or cutting. The cut branch on the donor plant should not provide a place for water to collect. The diagonal surface on the cutting provides additional space for root callus to form.

If the cutting has leaves, they should be cut off immediately. Excess sap loss is avoided if they are cut off at a point about 2 cm from the branch. The remaining stub will yellow and fall off in a couple of days. If the cutting has inflorescence or fruit, it may optionally be retained. The fruit will usually ripen allowing the seeds to be harvested later.

Allow the cut end to seal off for at least two weeks in a warm, dry, and well ventilated area. If the cutting was taken in late winter, you can wait as late as April or May (or longer) to plant.
How to Plant

Before planting the cutting, dip the cut end in water, root stimulator or concentrated Superthrive, then into a rooting powder that contains a fungicide such as Rootone. Only about 2 cm of the cut end should be so treated because roots will only develop along the circumference of the cut end.

Select a container appropriately sized for the cutting. Use a one gallon pot (about 4 l.)for cuttings without a branch point, but a two gallon pot (about 7 l.) for cuttings with one or more branch points. Of course, very large cuttings will require a larger container for stability.

The planting medium has three layers: The bottom layer should be a fast draining planting mix rich in organic material. The middle layer should be perlite or sand. The top layer should be the same as the bottom layer. Everyone seems to use a different planting mix formulation, but the essentials are high organic content, fast drainage, and moisture retention.

Fill the pot 2/3 full with the planting mix (the bottom layer), make a fist sized indentation and fill it with perlite or sand (the middle layer). Insert the cut end of the plumeria into the perlite/sand. Top off with more planting mix till the pot is nearly full (the top layer). The additional mix can be packed in to provide support, but supplemental support or staking is recommended. During the early root growing process it is very important that the cutting be stable. The initial roots are quite fragile and easily broken if the cutting is wobbling about in the pot.
Root Development

During the root development process water usage will be minimal. However, the soil should not be allowed to completely dry out. Approximately one cup (350 ml) of water should be added weekly until the plant has established a root system. Fortunately, frequent tropical downpours do not seem to cause any problem during the rooting process. Generally, a lush healthy growth of leaves will indicate an equally healthy root system. The entire rooting process should be performed in a somewhat dry, warm to hot, and full sun environment. Excellent results can be achieved by placing the container in full sun on a concrete surface. The heat absorbed and radiated by the concrete stimulate root growth.

Plumeria will generally be established in 45 to 75 days after planting. However, the new root system is very fragile. Avoid lifting the plant by the trunk, instead pick it up by the pot. Attempt to keep the plant as stable in the pot as possible.
When it blooms

Plumeria may bloom during the rooting process, however, the bloom does not indicate an established root system. The flower may or may not be representative of future flowers. Some people cut off the inflorescence so the plant devotes more energy to root development. Remember, healthy leaves indicate healthy roots, flowers do not.
Winter Storage

The healthy established plumeria cutting can be stored for the winter as any other plumeria.