Wood finishing question

[Superfly]

I just finished sanding down a 300 pound solid maple butcher block from the year 1902 and it is beautiful. I want to finish it in a way that is functional (can still cut on it) and is beautiful at the same time. Anybody have any ideas?

I was thinking an oil finish over a light stain (to do away with the blemishes) on all 6 sides...

Any ideas would be great!

Brian

[Lars39]

1. Use food grade stuff, whatever you use.

I want to say mineral spirits to keep the wood in shape. :shrug: If you stain it, wouldn't the chop marks really stand out?

[greendog]

2. This might help

http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?lGen=detail&itemID=102214&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=10080&iSubCat=10084&iProductID=102214

[BrotherBuzz]

3. Mineral oil

Mineral oil won't go rancid but a true butcher block is natural raw wood that would historically get a salt cure once a week to dry the wood. Today, all the wood gets in a professional kitchen is a clorine bleach cleanser (scouring powder) daily to sterilize it. Caveat: cooked food and raw food don't see the same butcher block.

[nothingshocksmeanymore]

4. Several coats of linseed oil over a period of time

Since Maple is a hard wood, it takes time for the lineed oil to penetrate...use a brush so it gets into the fiber. This takes places over a couple weeks.

Then pick up what is known as "violin maker's varnish"..it is a bit expensive but is thick and really compliments antique wood.

When done, polish with bee's wax.

[bicentennial_baby]

8. But if you use Linseed oil

Be very careful! My friend's mom had used linseed oil in her 250 year old house and threw all the rags in a hamper. Something happened with the amount of oxygen and the oil, and the hamper caught fire, burning the house to the ground. Needless to say, be careful how you dispose of linseed oil soaked materials....

[sam sarrha]

5. If its beautiful and old...dont use it for cutting food... It will stain

and end up looking like crap again... I would preserve it and use it for a functional statement table. but not for food prep, Plastic cutting boards are Essential for sanitation and convince in cleaning. I nearly died the last time i used a wood cutting board for chicken.. that was 30 years ago... use something you can pop into the washer and sanitize!!! for furniture i use Danish Wood oil or Teak oil by Wattco. then water base Polly urethane. the Diamond hard is best. best to spray it, otherwise apply slowly to avoid bubbles, the oil base is easier and prevents bubbles but darkens. several light coats, light sanding between coats, it brings out the iridescence and grain. if you are going to use linseed oil on furniture, use danish wood oil instead, it is a finer oil and is applied in several coats, the second 24 hrs after the first...later coats when it tac's is buffed in till shinny. with experience you can get a glossy finish with it alone.. Teak oil and Danish are PRIMO finishes and dont need urethane.. it smells great!!

[juajen]

6. Wood finish

Warmed walnut oil. I wouldn't put any stain on it.

Edited to say: This can be re-applied as often as you like and is perfectly safe for food prep.

Part of the charm in an old piece is the marks and imperfections. I disagree with above poster; use it often, it only gets more beautiful.

[Superfly]

9. I had to use

a wood filler on the legs (they were cracked slightly from a century of use) hence the stain. I bought "Colonial Maple" from Minwax and might be persuaded in using a "Natural" color instead.

Brian

[alwynsw]

7. Finish the sides if you like

but DO NOT finish the top. The work area needs to be untreated/unfinished wood. Any finish you use on the top will eventually contaminate any food you prepare on it if you plan to use it as a cutting surface. Most finishes will also damage knife and cleaver blades.

Clean well after use with a mild bleach solution and rinse well. The natural patina that you'll see develop after use will add charachter to the piece.

Why in the world would you sand it in the first place? Unless it had been used for purposes other than food preparation, only the top should ever be sanded on such a fine old piece.

[BrotherBuzz]

10. Agree...

but the tops were not sanded; they were scraped daily with a hooked edge steel scraper (a heavy grade cabinet scraper) that produced a mirror smooth surface, this also helped keep BB flat.

[Superfly]

11. Why sand?

Well, it had faced 101 years of use in a New Jersey butcher shop. After belt sanding the top, it really looks amazing (and flat).

Brian