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Fri Aug 23, 2013, 08:53 PM

New sewing machine table

We found another treadle sewing machine base at an estate sale recently, so I decided to make another table.

The top is reclaimed brazilian mahogany flooring (scavenged from a dumpster in the next neighborhood over- shhh!) I had to plane it down by about 1/8-3/16" to get it to line up nicely. There are still a few nail holes and gouges visible, but I filled in most of them with a black epoxy mixed with sawdust.

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Arrow 11 replies Author Time Post
Reply New sewing machine table (Original post)
X_Digger Aug 2013 OP
PoliticAverse Aug 2013 #1
X_Digger Aug 2013 #2
PoliticAverse Aug 2013 #3
Adsos Letter Aug 2013 #4
X_Digger Aug 2013 #5
Adsos Letter Aug 2013 #6
X_Digger Aug 2013 #7
Adsos Letter Aug 2013 #8
X_Digger Aug 2013 #9
ehrnst Aug 2013 #10
X_Digger Aug 2013 #11

Response to X_Digger (Original post)

Fri Aug 23, 2013, 09:04 PM

1. I like what you did on the end grain area. n/t

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Response to PoliticAverse (Reply #1)

Fri Aug 23, 2013, 09:08 PM

2. Thanks, it's actually a breadboard / tongue and groove

Wood tends to expand perpendicular to the grain, so if you nail / fasten long grain to end grain, it tends to separate over time.

It's glued in the middle, but is floating until the ends.

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Response to X_Digger (Reply #2)

Fri Aug 23, 2013, 09:09 PM

3. Nice. n/t

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Response to X_Digger (Original post)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 12:16 AM

4. Nice!

Nothing wrong with nail holes and gouges, especially with the way you treated them. Always adds a nice bit of character.

The wood is beautiful! What type of clear did you use?

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Response to Adsos Letter (Reply #4)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 12:22 AM

5. Hand rubbed poly, cut 40-50% with thinner.

Four coats total, I believe.

This wood has a lot of.. umm.. depth, I guess would be the right term. It has a refractive sheen that changes the look depending on angle.

I tried just a brushed on polyurethane, but for some reason that dulled the sheen / depth. So I stripped that off and started over.

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Response to X_Digger (Reply #5)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 12:30 AM

6. What sheen was the polyurethane you brushed on?

Just curious. I've seen lower sheen polys dull the depth because of the flatteners in them, especially in the higher build types. What brand did you use? We used to use a lot of Zar, and also McCloskey's "Heirloom."

EDIT: We also used a fair amount of Tung Oil for rubbed out finishes.

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Response to Adsos Letter (Reply #6)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 12:38 AM

7. Cheap minwax gloss.

It was smooth and clear, but for some reason, the depth just.. flattened.

It *looked* like a layer of clear just laying on top of the wood.

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Response to X_Digger (Reply #7)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 12:53 AM

8. I'm out of the loop with what they're formulating finishes from these days.

I've been out of the trade going on seven years now, and the material here in California has changed dramatically (along with the prices).

Went in to buy some Simpson's mar proof bar top lacquer the other day, and the Sherwin-Williams guy told me they can't stock it anymore. VOC's, I suppose.

This winter I'm planning on finally building the Brazilian Cherry trestle table I've had the plans for going on thirty years now. I'm hoping for the patience to do a real French Polish with ruby shellac. Labor intensive, and certainly not as tough as either poly or tung oil, but hard to beat the look.

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Response to Adsos Letter (Reply #8)

Sat Aug 24, 2013, 08:41 AM

9. Yeah, there's a big gap for me as well..

This whole crop of water-based finishes is new to me too. I'm used to sanding sealer then a hard oil based poly or varnish.

Seems to me that many of these new finishes are too rubbery and not sandable.

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Response to X_Digger (Original post)

Thu Aug 29, 2013, 09:26 AM

10. Beautiful! (nt)

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Response to ehrnst (Reply #10)

Fri Aug 30, 2013, 09:43 AM

11. Thanks! n/t

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