'Maybe you have some ideas about the new year, as I do, and you’ve dedicated substantial minutes considering what version of yourself you’d like to cultivate in the coming months. You think you’d like to eat better. To have more adventures. Take more risks. Maybe you are moving to Canada and want to learn to speak French. In any case, you resolve that you are going to wake up on New Year’s Day, invigorated by the fresh start laid out in front of you like new snow on a school morning, and make some serious tracks.
But let’s take it the way it actually comes. You wake up so many hours past noon that the year already has a tinge of gray sludge on its edges by the time you are ready to take it on. You find yourself still living in last night’s body, and what it wants (with a vengeance) is a juicy rare burger and fries.
Steak tartare, the famous burgerlike loose patty of cold (and for the uninitiated, shockingly) raw chopped beef, taken down with a hot wedge of buttery pommes Anna, offers — while maybe not the serious tracks we vowed to ourselves — at least serious traction toward becoming that new-year self.'>>>