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This message was self-deleted by its author (Flying Squirrel) on Mon Nov 7, 2016, 09:50 PM. When the original post in a discussion thread is self-deleted, the entire discussion thread is automatically locked so new replies cannot be posted.
RobertEarl
(13,685 posts)Some stuff is really screwed up, idn't?
Good advice for some good long lasting screwing, there, Squirrel.
NV Whino
(20,886 posts)Squinch
(50,949 posts)We don't need no stinkin' screws...
...except...you know...
dixiegrrrrl
(60,010 posts)We have actually found pieces of wood on the house that have nails thru them sticking into ...air.
Squinch
(50,949 posts)JimDandy
(7,318 posts)cyberswede
(26,117 posts)awoke_in_2003
(34,582 posts)petronius
(26,602 posts)pinboy3niner
(53,339 posts)dem in texas
(2,674 posts)Lordy me! You mean I can't use my hot glue gun????
A HERETIC I AM
(24,365 posts):::Replaces every single wood screw joint there is with smaller than needed screws and over sized holes::::
BWAAA.....HAHA HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
I am an incredibly evil person.
warrior1
(12,325 posts)Gidney N Cloyd
(19,833 posts)840high
(17,196 posts)gristy
(10,667 posts)No drilling at all!
Callmecrazy
(3,065 posts)They're more for metal.
gristy
(10,667 posts)It's got this little burr on the tip to open up the wood just a bit
http://www.lowes.com/Search=deck+screws?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=deck+screws#!
KG
(28,751 posts)surrealAmerican
(11,360 posts)We need a third bit for that, but it's worth it.
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)On the project and the wood... an project that doesn't have to look perfect, with soft wood, the head will probably counter-sink itself (as I'm sure you knew already)
dionysus
(26,467 posts)on the foundation and wall studs.
I always use pilot holes for interior molding at the edges so it doesn't split.
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)easychoice
(1,043 posts)Otherwise the pitch of the thread will jack the two parts away from each other.
I prefer Sikaflex and duct tape with a lot of bessie clamps for all my fastening needs.
TheMadMonk
(6,187 posts)When working wood, I like to teach myself how to do things using hand tools and traditional methods, but once I have, I switch to power tools for speed and accuracy.
With a little bit of reworking (a solid fence usually) even a cheap as dirt router bench can deliver very good results. With a router bench the dovetail is yours for the having.
A little bit of planning, and you can take pride in a project held together by dovetails and perhaps only a single pin.
dixiegrrrrl
(60,010 posts)He is an excellent woodworker, "old school".
So I hear what you are saying also.
Safetykitten
(5,162 posts)Buns_of_Fire
(17,174 posts)Yes, it CAN be done!
JimDandy
(7,318 posts)hunter
(38,310 posts)The screws are only there to hold the joint together while the adhesive cures. Screws can even be removed afterwards.
Titebond III, Gorilla Glue, marine epoxies... today's adhesives are amazing compared to the older glues that ruined glue's reputation.
I will go "old school" to be authentic. My grandfather collected screws in the Great Depression and my siblings and I still have thousands of them. (He was away from home and busy as an officer during World War II so his collection survived neighborhood scrap drives.)
Woodworking is not one of my obsessions so I'll probably never get into "high art" traditional joinery.
MineralMan
(146,286 posts)wood screws.
Adjustable for length, they are sized to match standard screw sizes, and countersink and counterbore as well. The ones shown here don't have adjustable counterbore stops, but those are also available as a set of four.
If you use wood screws regularly, a set of these belongs in your workshop, in it's own little box, and stored with the hex wrenches.
There is no substitute for proper tools.
One hint: If you are driving screws into hardwoods, lubricate the threads with candlewax or ivory soap before driving them. That solves a world of problems.
Another hint: Any outdoor project should be assembled with brass or stainless steel wood screws. They cost more, but last.
Finally: Screws are for holding the assembly together while the glue dries. Use the appropriate glue, unless you are planning to disassemble the assembly later.
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)They don't drill a wider hole all the way through the first piece, so you would still have the same problem with effective clamping action. I probably don't use glue as often as I should. Good advice about the hardwoods, thanks!
MineralMan
(146,286 posts)pieces together, the clamping effect is still excellent with the screws.
Personally, I rarely use screws any longer. I use mainly doweled joints, glue, and clamps during assembly. It's much better aesthetically. For rough work, I do use screws, but normally use self-drilling drywall screws in those cases. The tulip heads countersink themselves pretty well in softwoods and assembly goes faster. More expensive, but very effective.
But, for construction of most things, I use dowel and glue construction pretty much all the time. I have doweling jigs to ensure proper alignment during assembly, and dozens of clamps. I like the results better.
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)I may have to branch out to dovetails and dowels at some point.
MineralMan
(146,286 posts)Doweling, splines, cookies and other similar methods are easier, although there is an investment in doweling jigs and clamps. Another interesting joint for cabinet work is the half-lap joint. Lots of surface for glue, and I often use contrasting through dowels on those joints. But those are added after clamping.
I'm a power tool guy, and just don't have the patience to do hand-cut dovetails, and don't like the look of machine dovetails. If you already have a table saw and router, make your next investment in a 6" jointer/planer. That single tool will open up an entire new set of options for your woodworking.
The other tool I highly recommend is a radial arm saw. A good one. They're not as popular as they once were, but are probably the most useful tool anyone can have in their shop. Ryobi made a wonderful one, that used a geared drive for the blade. The motor's spindle runs much faster, so you can actually use shaper bits on it (like a giant router) and do some amazing things. I could do just about everything with a good radial arm saw, if I have the necessary accessories. A wonderful tool, once you learn its capabilities. Expensive, though, and good blades and dado blades are expensive, but worth the money. Ryobi dropped making them, though, but excellent used ones can often be located through Craig's list. The older Craftsman RA saws are also very good.
ladyVet
(1,587 posts)I love tools and making things. I have a better tool box and more tools than almost every man I've ever met.
I like that. Girls with Tools. What could be better?
JimDandy
(7,318 posts)satyryk
(2 posts)Should I use the same method when clamping treads to risers to eliminate squeaking stairs? Thanks
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)satyryk
(2 posts)Thanks for that.
It's an old house and treads would slightly bend in the middle when walking on them. Trouble is I don't have access from underneath to strength the treads and I think all I can do is to screw treads to risers (there are old nails there but they don't hold treads in position) and squeeze some wood glue wherever I can see any gap. Would this be a correct method?
Instead of drilling two different diameter holes, would a screw with a shank of diameter 4mm (?) going into one diameter hole only do? The treads are 30mm thick and the risers are only 15mm thick so theres not much space for bigger screws. Thanks in advance.
Flying Squirrel
(3,041 posts)Last edited Thu Dec 19, 2013, 12:28 AM - Edit history (1)
I would probably use screws 70-80mm long, and if you use 4 mm shank screws, first drill a 4mm hole 70-75mm deep, then drill a 6mm hole in the same place but only about 30-35mm deep (you can mark the depth on your drill bit with a permanent marker or fingernail polish etc. so you know when to stop).